VINO DE PAGO, the highest classification that can be attained under Spanish wine law, was introduced in 2003 to cover individual, pioneering, high-end bodegas whose consistently-superlative wines fell outside the normal appellation system. Previously, these brilliant bottles were banished to the wretched ‘vino de la mesa’ (table wine) basket, a travesty, given their calibre. Pago is an exclusive club, with just 14 wineries in all of Spain entitled to the designation.
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