BIODYNAMIC VITICULTURE (<1% of the world’s vineyards) is a controversial approach to grape growing that is best understood as an enhanced (extreme?) form of organic farming, boosted by liberal additions of mystical sky-watching. Based on the teachings of 1920s Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, biodynamics involves, among other things: ‘ashing’ – burning pests and scattering their ashes to deter the bugs’ comrades; fermenting manure in buried cow horns to make a soil microbe-supporting tonic; and scheduling vineyard work around cosmic (especially lunar) rhythms. Plenty laugh, but several illustrious producers are disciples, and biodynamic wines, generally, perform enviably in blind tastings; opponents counter that meticulous winemaking, not biodynamics, is the key factor. Ponder all this as you sip Curious Wines’ sole biodynamic wine, a voluptuous Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.
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