Austere and tight initially, it unfurls gorgeously after a spell in the decanter to reveal dark, brooding flavours of damson, dried fruits and forest floor, with a minerally backbone and classy espresso bean veneer.
Decant for a couple of hours and serve with rare red meat - fillet steak, chateaubriand - and simple sides.
Clos Troteligotte's 'K-Nom' (K-Nom-Nom, we would've said, but anyway) is made from around 85% Malbec and 15% Merlot cropped at 50 hectolitres per hectare. Maturation is 18 months in inert tanks - no oak influence, all fruit.
Twelve-hectare Clos Troteligotte (estd. 1987), headed by Cahors family man Emmanuel Rybinski, is one of our best finds yet: rare terroir (red, iron-rich soil, à la Coonawarra); cool packaging; breathtaking juice; and barely-believable prices vis-a-vis quality. Certified-organic since 2014 - and with even-cleaner biodynamic to follow ("Total respect for the earth, plants, animals and wine are our priorities.") - hot-to-Troteligotte specialises of course in Malbec, probably the world's trendiest red grape right now.
Cahors, an unassuming town in SW France, is famous for its chunky, robust (and formerly rustic) reds made from at least 70% Malbec (known locally as Côt/Auxerrois), with small quantities of Tannat and Merlot. Cahors is invariably leaner than the showier Mendoza (Argentina) Malbecs that are so popular these days, although the two styles have merged somewhat of late, as producers from both areas collaborate.