With our 20% off New Zealand sale still ongoing, and this being the last week of our additional buy six bottles get a seventh free on Greenhough Sauvignon Blanc, here is the second part of our interview with the talented winemaking New Zealander, Andrew Greenhough.

Questions 1-5 click here.

6. There’s a lot of ‘showy’ Pinots out there (some from New Zealand) – what some call ‘blockbuster’ styles. What is your take on those wines and how do they sit with your philosophy at Greenhough? Again, have you seen your style evolve much and if you were to project outward say 10 years, where would you think the style will get to?

In the extreme, big, ‘blockbuster’ Pinots can risk a loss of varietal character and while showy can sometimes be one dimensional and a little boring, these styles often score well in competitions. Pinot Noir is by no means the only variety where this is the case. For me, these styles can lack complexity and interest particularly at the higher price point where I am looking for other characters beyond big fruit and obvious power - elegance, supple texture, multi-layers of flavour, with concentrated fruit as the basis for spicy, savoury, structural elements.

I think that there are a whole range of different Pinot styles out there now and that’s probably a good thing. The  softer structured styles which are very fruit sweet and forward can deliver great drinkability and if  targeted at the more price conscious end of the market these characters are no doubt essential. There is skill in achieving styles which are appropriate to varying price points and target markets. I have definitely become more conscious of the need to make the Greenhough range of wines, (as distinct from the Hope Vineyard),  fruit driven, balanced and approachable while retaining some degree of complexity. The Hope Vineyard Pinot Noir has over the years evolved away from and emphasis on sweet fruit to become more savoury. I think that older vines and better viticulture are providing more concentration and texture which is more supple and integrated. I expect that this will be a continued evolution over time.

7. Ireland tends to shun many Chardonnays and shy away from them. Tell us about your Chardonnay style. Can you make the case for us to explore Chardonnay again?

I really hope so as I rate Chardonnay from NZ as exceptional value for money. The Greenhough Nelson style is fruit focused for drinking as soon as it is released and over the next 2-3 years. It is 100% fermented in French oak and aged for approx 5-6 months, released in the same year that it is made. The oak fermentation is aimed to provide some savoury complexity through lees influence and warmer ferment. However, oak flavour is minimal and very much in the background as the percentage of new oak is very small. It’s a fresh, uncomplicated Chardonnay style which makes great drinking with or without food. On the other hand, the Hope Vineyard Chardonnay is aged for a full year in French oak which is still reasonably restrained though the new oak component is typically around 25%. It is a taughter, more structured style with added complexity and cellaring potential. Definitely more of a food style. I guess it is pretty easy to make a good case for drinking Chardonnay, (and specifically NZ Chardonnay), provided that it is a variety that you enjoy. I drink more Chardonnay than any other white wine and while many are not to my taste those that are represent superb drinking.

8. How have you gone about site selection for your different wines? Do you think its showing in the style of wines you are making?

Our range of wines and styles are based more around clonal selection than site selection. Obviously the site specific Hope Vineyard wines are a reflection of place and over a period of years exhibit certain consistent characteristics even given seasonal variation. This is the site which we have become intimately familiar with over the past 20 years. But these wines are also built around particular, generally older blocks of vines within the vineyard which over time have proved their quality. For example, the Mendoza and UCD15 clones of Chardonnay are the basis of the Hope Vineyard wine with their particular citrus expression, concentration and defined structure. Winemaking is also varied according to the particular stylistic emphasis which is aimed for in the wine. Over time there may be an evolution of new single vineyard wines based on the heavier clay soils of our Upper Moutere vineyards should a distinct character related to site become apparent

9. We see international reviews of Greenhough wines around and about, but few awards. What’s your attitude to competitions and shows and the quest for a ‘gold’?

Years ago we entered wine competitions regularly and received our share of gold medal results across all varieties. We no longer do this regularly though occasionally will enter something offshore – perhaps in a new market or if there is a request for us to do so. To some extent wine competitions are a bit of a lottery and hit and miss. If show results are to be a strategy for marketing and brand profiling then there needs to be a comprehensive ‘scatter gun’ approach taken in order to maximize chances of top results. I would not describe our wine styles as ‘showy’ and they may not suit the competition format as well as many others. We prefer to submit wines to wine writers and some of the specialist wine publications for assessment and review.

10. If you had a one year sabbatical to make wine somewhere else in the world where would it be and why?

Germany I think.  I have spent time in France on several occasions and had hands on vintage experience in Burgundy. It would be interesting to explore Riesling styles and winemaking practices at first hand in a small, top quality winery.  The Germans seem to successfully combine traditional and highly technological approaches to most things including winemaking and I am sure this would be enlightening. In terms of their viticulture there is a strong emphasis on sustainability, (organic and biodynamic management practices),  and a generally holistic attitude to winemaking – something that rests well with us.

Sincere thanks to Andrew Greenhough. To view his fantastic range, which we are adding more wines to shortly, click here.

“Of all the wineries scattered across the Waimea Plains, this small producer at Hope, south of Nelson city, has the quality edge.”

Michael Cooper,
Pocket Guide to Wines of New Zealand

Andrew Greenhough is one of the success stories of the New Zealand wine industry. Every vintage his Greenhough range astounds us, not only in that all-important matter of price vs quality, but in the variety and unique styles that he brings to our range of New Zealand wines.

We’ve asked Andrew 10 questions, 5 of which are below and 5 of which will be posted next week. It’s well timed as there is currently 20% off all of our New Zealand wines, including Greenhough, until the end of August. In addition, until the end of July, we have buy 6 get one free on the Greenhough Sauvignon Blanc - a genuinely fantastic offer you’re not likely to see again for a long time… if ever.

1. You could have chosen any region in New Zealand to make wine. Why did you choose Nelson?

To a certain extent Nelson chose us. We knew of Nelson as a beautiful region close to the sea, national parks, ideal climate and culturally very interesting. All of these things were important to us. Certainly there was no desire to move to many of the other wine growing regions which did not offer such a complete package. The wine industry back in 1990 was relatively un-evolved by today’s standards – Central Otago for example was in its infancy as were a number of the smaller wine regions and so there was not the same very strong association with wine that many now have. That said, if we had our choice again today, we wouldn’t go anywhere different! There was an opportunity to buy land and a small operating winery in Nelson within a region already producing excellent wines and this became an appropriate way into the industry for us.

2. Make the case for Nelson Sauvignon Blanc – what gives it an edge over other New Zealand styles and how have you evolved your style as you’ve got to grips with the land. Are there ‘no go’ areas with Sauvignon Blanc you feel strongly about. How do you feel it is evolving?

Nelson Sauvignon Blanc has a definite ‘top of the south’ character with vibrant, lively fruit flavours ranging from the more herbaceous through to ripe citrus and tropical. Generally Nelson Sauvignon expresses a degree of restraint and subtlety, (that is a little less pungent than some), good palate weight and mineral freshness. For me this makes Nelson Sauvignon a more food friendly style than many. Some winemakers prefer to emphasise more pungent, herbaceous characters and others a riper, more tropical style. Both work well, though for me the most successful styles are in the riper spectrum with herbaceousness in the background. There has been an evolution towards riper styles of New Zealand Sauvignon across regions. Also some more complex styles employing wild fermentation, barrel ferment and lees aging. These are interesting and delicious when the balance of these elements is well handled and fruit flavours are in the riper spectrum. For me the inclusion of a very small percentage of new oak fermentation (less than 5%) adds more dimension to the mid palate of the wine. The oak should not be at all apparent however and the style should retain a fresh, uncomplicated fruit focus. Moderate yields are essential to achieve good natural sugar/acid balance in the fruit along with generally riper flavours and phenolics. This balance means that we are able to successfully make a genuinely dry style of Sauvignon.

3. We hear Nelson hosted the International Aromatics Symposium in February with Ernst Loosen (of German fame) present to cast an eye over progress and to lead panel discussion. How did the event go?

As a region, Nelson has a climate which allows it to produce a relatively wide range of varieties extremely well – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and the aromatics. While Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir have become popularly associated with Marlborough and Central Otago respectively, the aromatics were ‘up for grabs’. Without doubt, Nelson is able to consistently produce some of the country’s best Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris and in February 2010 hosted the second triennial Nelson Aromatics Symposium. It’s an event which allows us to attract an important and influential audience, to raise the regional profile and show off the quality of our wines in general.  This year the focus was on Riesling and Gewurztraminer. The 160 delegates included international wine writers, wine trade, winemakers and enthusiasts who spent a day tasting and discussing their way through a range of regional and international wines. It was a great opportunity to pitch a selection of New Zealand wines alongside some iconic French, German and Austrian examples. The event was a great success. Come visit us for the next one in 2013!

4. Your range is expanding each year – more recently Pinot Blanc and sweeter, low alcohol Rieslings added. On top of your traditional range of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir what are you most excited about in your grape varieties or evolving styles going forward. Do you have a favourite child in the pack?

I don’t really have a regular favourite. It varies from vintage to vintage. The Pinot Blanc is a wine which we began making in 2003 from some of the oldest vines in our home vineyard, (and in the region), planted in 1976. For many years this very small volume wine was blended into our Chardonnay. We have since planted a few extra rows of vines and produce a very limited number of cases of this single vineyard wine. It is dryish in style, fermented and aged in old barrels with a focus on palate texture and richness rather than fruitiness. It is a very interesting wine and has gained an enthusiastic following. We have always had success with Riesling. Our first gold medals in the mid 1990s were for this variety. The off-dry, Hope Vineyard Riesling is also made from our oldest vines and expresses ripe citrus flavours. More recently we have introduced the Apple Valley Riesling, a lower alcohol, sweeter wine in a vaguely German Spatlese style expressing juicy, apply freshness. This is a style which has gained a lot of momentum in New Zealand and works extremely well with our higher acid levels balancing naturally with higher residual sugar. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay continue to be an absorbing challenge in the vineyard and winery. Alongside the Sauvignon, It has been a very positive evolution having clearly defined two quite distinctive styles of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, together with Riesling within our range.

5. Tell us about what drives you in making Pinot Noir? Where do you think New Zealand is at in terms of regional style?

Pinot Noir is a never ending challenge and that keeps it interesting in both the vineyard and winery. There is always the desire to understand the fruit better and to allow it express itself clearly and consistently over time. It will reflect the place where it is grown and assume a recognisable identity. A thorough knowledge of the site and an accurate interpretation of the season and its influence on fruit is essential. This context becomes clearer with every passing vintage. It is always exciting to be making a wine variety which has such a dedicated following and importance in the scheme of New Zealand wine. I suppose it is possible to define regional styles in a broader sense and with time this may become more clear cut. In some wines these are clearly evident but there are always wines that do not fit the regional mould. Winemaker influence and philosophy does play an important part in the way that the wine expresses itself and often this can cloud the issue and over ride the regional thing. I think that regional character of Pinot will inevitably become clearer over time and this will be a good evolution. In the meantime, continued striving for quality, site selection, increased vine age and evolution of sustainable, organic and biodynamic practices will contribute to more recognizable and individual examples of NZ Pinot Noir.

To be continued next Wednesday…

Click here to view the range from Andrew.

After a clatter of winemaker and celebrity interviews (with more to come) I thought it was about time we asked a few questions to one of the Masters of Wine behind a number of our labels in the Curious Wines range.

1. With less than 300 MW’s in the world, you’re obviously one of a rare breed. What was the biggest challenge that you had to overcome on your journey to becoming a Master of Wine?

Very simply, finding enough time for study, job and family. There’s a lot of mystique surrounding the MW qualification because of the low pass rate – but if it was a full time degree course it would be a different story. My teenage son asked me recently – ‘so why are there so few? Is it really that hard or just that no one else can be arsed to do it?’ I didn’t answer!

2. Was there a particular experience, whether it be with a person or a particular wine, that helped you choose the career path you did?

Many people but notably David Gleave and Nicolas Belfrage, both MW’s and experts on Italian wines, who I was lucky enough to work with and combine commercial acumen with passion and enthusiasm. The first wine I remember making a real impression and gave me my first glimpse of ‘fine wine’ was a 1976 Maximin Grunhauser Auslese.

3. We’re very fortunate with the range of wines available to us in Ireland, but are there any dark horses out there? Any regions or grape varieties we really should be paying more attention to?

There’s always more to discover, that’s what makes wine constantly fascinating. To name but three – Monastrell from Murcia, Barbera from Piemonte and Gruner Veltliner from Austria. All well known in their native countries but still relatively undiscovered here.

4. As a buyer of Spanish wines, including our Valliciergo and Quinta el Refugio range, what do you look for when considering wines to bring to market?

They need to good examples of their variety and region and true to their origin while at the same time offering enjoyment, drinkability and value for money. The Quinta el Refugio is a great example of a wine that ticks all the boxes.

5. For everyday drinking wine, what grape varieties and region/country would you be most loyal to? And briefly, do you have a desert island wine?

The two countries I work with most, Spain and Italy, are those I turn to for everyday drinking. Spain for approachable, vibrant wines that over deliver on all fronts, Italy for diversity and its ability to surprise. Both produce wines with bold flavours and bags of personality. I’d hate to be restricted to a single wine, however good. The huge spectrum of styles and flavours is what keeps wine exciting. If I had to choose though, it would have to be good red Burgundy. At its best, mature Pinot Noir is unrivalled.

Thanks to Tony Brown MW & Lesley Atkins of Boutinot.

It’s a privilege to introduce one of the most highly respected names in Chablis to the Curious Wine Blog. Pascal Bouchard (the Bouchard range) has managed his own vineyards in Chablis for over thirty years now, and has been producing some of the regions most prized wines. In 2000, he was joined by his son Romain, who’s 2007 vintage ‘Vau de Vey‘ Chablis received a Gold Medal at the ‘09 International Wine Challenge.

The “Kings of old style Chablis” help explain what makes Chablis what it is.

1. In comparison to Chardonnay produced elsewhere in the world, what do see as the key difference or strength that Chablis brings to the fore?

Pascal & Romain - Chablis is very much in its own element. The wine style that one finds with Chablis is the purity of fruit, crisp acidity and overall the intense minerality. Chardonnay can be produced in many different styles through the hands of the winemaker, be it oak-aged, old vine, stainless steel which can be delicious from many regions around the globe however, in Chablis the growing conditions (in all aspects) produce grape characteristic that is unique to this specific region – this is why we speak so clearly about the “terroir” that we are blessed with here in Chablis.

2. What is your opinion on the use of oak in Chablis?

Pascal & Romain - Using French oak can be a very interesting part of winemaking for Chablis wine. It offers another dimension to our wine style resulting in a broader, fatter wine which we use for our old vine Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru and mainly with our Grand Crus. How we use oak in our wine making is not a general rule but rather an aid in offering different Chablis’ styles to our range. When oak is over extracted the wine becomes unbalanced and stripes the true identity of the grape. Our use of oak is always a subtle part of the production process. Our wines are matured on fine lees, again adding a particular style to our winemaking.

3. Your 2007 ‘Vau de Vey’ picked up a Gold Medal in last years International Wine Challenge. How important do you think it is to acquire these kinds of accolades, and is it always a mission to do so?

Romain - It’s always exciting to receive awards for the hard work gone into the making my wine. However, I don’t want to rely on medals given to my wines in order to sell them. I understand that the consumer likes to see awards given as many people don’t get to taste the wine before purchase; therefore it gives them a certain reassurance that the wine has a certain standard. As the 2007 was only my second vintage, awards can help build my reputation at this point in my early days of producing my own wine. However, it is my goal to build my name as a serious and rigorous winemaker and that my name becomes a reference point in Chablis.

4. If you couldn’t make wine in Chablis any more, where would you go and what would you grow?

Pascal - I have been making Chablis for over 30 years and love the unique characteristics of the Chardonnay that grows here. However, I’m particularly interested in Viognier that grows in Condrieu. The wines produced are again specific to that very region and unlike any other wines that can be found elsewhere in the world. I also enjoy the reds from the Côte Rotie and would find it most interesting to produce something from the area.

5. The New World producers have really raised the bar in the global wine industry in terms of branding and marketing. What do you think will be the response of Chablis producers in an attempt to hold on to and gain market share in the future?

Pascal & Romain - New World producers need to find their own mark and as the appellation system is different in New World wine growing areas – marketing and brand building is vital to get a message across, hence their energy in packaging. Some producers dismissed the term “terrior” in the early 90s claiming that wine quality comes from the winery. This thought process has made a radical change in the past ten years, as now much of the marketing behind these wines are ironically geared towards viticulture and soil aspects.

Chablis has its own “brand and marketing” in the same way as with other “Grands Crus de France”.  With “Chablis” on the label, the consumer already has a good idea of wine style, knowing that Chablis can only be called Chablis when produced from the region. It’s then down to the individual producer to promote their wines. However, there are many tastings around the world and marketing campaigns that promote Chablis as a unique and qualitative entity.

With regards to market share, Chablis has not “lost” market share as such, only wine consumption has increased as now more wines are accessible in the market and drinking trends have moved towards wine. I don’t want to “compete” with New World wines as this has no interest to me. Chablis is unique and getting this message across is paramount.

Thanks to Pascal, Romain and Alistair of Bouchard Wines, Chablis.

Click here to view the range from Bouchard.

The success of Dignité has firmly fixated the spotlight onto winemaker Eric Monnin. His robust Languedoc Syrah, and complex white partner of Viognier, have really impressed since joining the Curious range. This is a man meticulous about blends, tasting and re-tasting until he is completely satisfied with what the wine offers. Originally focussed on the Rhône, Eric’s extensive experience also covers the Loire and Burgundy.

As we run out the last of the ‘05 vintage, Eric explains why there is not going to be an ‘06 Syrah (although there will be an ‘07) and what other varieties he’s been working with recently, in a region that really is starting to be taken seriously.

1. Your ‘05 Dignité Syrah was astonishing. What do you believe is the main appeal of your flagship wine to the everyday wine drinker and to the judges of Concours National? Also, how is the ‘07 fairing and why no ‘06?

Dignité Syrah is probably not an everyday drinking wine, although there are customers happy to drink it every day. I would consider Dignité Syrah more as a weekend wine or a wine for a nice meal with friends. It’s at its best when you can take the time to decant it and let it aerate before drinking.

I made it as I like it, in others words, my inspiration probably comes from the Northern Rhône. I really like Côtes Rotie or Saint Joseph. For this reason I wanted to age this wine in barrels in order to extract more complexity and concentrate the original rich syrah, but you will notice that I have tried to keep the black fruit from the syrah by avoiding too much oak in order to produce a balanced and drinkable wine for everyone to enjoy, and not only to win a medal! Medals don’t drink wines, customers do!

Why no ‘06? When we picked the grapes of the ‘06 vintage, the 05 was still in barrels and we were still unsure about the potential of the wine and the final result. For this reason the grapes of ‘06 have been used for another blend. Since this date, I can confirm that I have the ‘07 in barrels and we are racking this week (mid February) and should be available by May this year. I also have the ‘08 and the ‘09.

2. We recently acquired your Simply range, which may be considered your entry-level to Dignité. How do they compare?

Simply Shiraz is just a simple wine, fruity, spicy and approachable for everyday drinking. I am a syrah lover, that’s probably why we have different wines like this one.

3. What do you make of the recent fiasco involving a Languedoc supplier and American wine producer Gallo? Do you think it will damage the reputation of the Languedoc in the United States and worldwide?

People started to realise the potential business for growing Pinot Noir. They became the most expensive grapes in the South of France after the famous movie (Sideways). Unfortunately some people had no “scruple” to sell Pinot Noir when it was not. I suspect the buyers of these wines closed their eyes because the volume and the money involved was too big.

At the end what happened was what all of us expected to see happen for more than 2 or 3 years. I don’t think it should affect the region, just those responsible!

4. What grape(s) do you believe thrive particularly well in the Languedoc, and are you tempted to start experimenting with any new varietals beyond the likes of Syrah, Viognier and Sauvignon?

Most of the producers have the classical grapes like Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cab Sauv and Syrah. I am keen on trying new things and working with others less common grapes.

Today in the Languedoc, I very interested in grapes like Grenache blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne. They have great potential. That’s also why I will launch a Marsanne Roussanne 2009 coming from a single estate in May 2010.

I also think that Gascony has great potential for Sauvignon and Colombard, so another region with a nice future.

5. Languedoc is certainly a region of France that Irish people are starting to pay much more attention to when it comes to wine. What do you see for the future of the region’s wine industry as a whole?

Languedoc is definitely a nice region with big potential, but unfortunately the price paid for grapes is quite often too low for the farmers, which explains why a lot people have pulled up their vines in the past four five years. As a result we may see a change in this region that has already started and it will become better for what I call small gems.

In view of the future, the “Vin de France” (Indication Géographique France) will take more importance on the shelves, which is not necessarily a great thing from my point of view. Indeed, while the New World is trying to organise its appellations, France, who created the AOC system, is now “driving back” creating a generic product like the New World producers when they started to produce. It is probably a good commercial decision for France in the long run, but I still struggle with this one. However, we will see how it goes in the next years.

Click here to view previous posts on Dignité.

Special thanks to Eric Monnin.

He’s one of the UK’s leading wine commentators and the star of a spanking new YouTube channel, Olly Smith talks exclusively to Curious Wines.

Olly is a regular of BBC’s Saturday morning kitchen and hosted The F-Word Live, Channel 4’s Taste of London and the BBC’s MasterChef Live.

Last month he launched Olly Smith’s Drink Tank, which you can subscribe to by following this link to YouTube. Episode 5 is embedded at the bottom of this post. It’s fantastically entertaining, funny and educational, so well worth checking out. Here’s the man himself…

1. Olly, you’re a man of many talents. Musically, comically and in the area of wine. Can you name all four Ghostbusters?

Yes absolutely, Pete Venkman, Winston K. Zeddemore, Ray Stansz and Egon Spengler. Funnily enough I watched Ghostbusters 2 last night and it’s far better than I remember but I rather missed the thrill of the original theme tune to remind us all that “bustin’ makes me feel good”. Nothing finer. Ghostbusters 3 is in pre-production as we speak and I would give a bottle of the finest wine in my cellar to the person who gets me a role in the movie.

2. Was there a specific wine drinking experience that got you hooked on the grape juice? When did your passion really begin and how did you make that leap into “celebrity” status?

It was at a free tasting at the Oddbins on South Clerk Street in Edinburgh when the bug really bit me - I tasted a simple French white wine for £3.29 and it tingled from my ears to my toes like an electric eel doing a disco marathon. Fantastic, invigorating and surprising. And affordable! The move into a more professional role happened thanks to a competition called Wine Idol which I managed to win and deploy as a calling card to knock on doors and spread the gospel according to Bacchus.

3. As a man living and breathing wine, is there a particular country or region you believe is delivering best value examples on the market at the minute?

At the minute I’d have to say Chile and right now they need our support in the aftermath of the terrifying earthquake.

4. With your experience on BBC’s Saturday Morning Kitchen, the F-Word Live and Richard and Judy to name a few, you have surely come across some real characters in the industry. Who is the biggest dickhead?

The industry is definitely packed with characters, I’ve not met anyone I’d describe that way but I would say that the person I was most chuffed to meet was Sir Roger Moore who could not have been more charming. I pocketed the box of matches from the table where we met as a souvenir and it’s still on my desk 5 years on. I’m a huge fan of His Rogesty and the work he does for UNICEF.

5. Olly Smith’s Drink Tank - we think it’s a masterpiece. Have you any further plans in store that we should know about regarding your new YouTube channel, or your own future plans?

Thanks for the kind words, glad you like it! I have a new show coming out on Channel 4 called Iron Chef, it broadcasts every day from April 26th at 5pm for 5 weeks. My book ‘Eat & Drink‘ is also released on May 27th which I wrote and illustrated and is a romp around the world of matching the flavours of wine and food as well as some behind the scenes action from Saturday Kitchen and other telly larks.

Sincere thanks to Olly Smith and to Justin and Teodora at Channel Flip.

If you haven’t heard of them yet, you really don’t know what you’re missing. Italian Winery of the Year three years running (IWSC, 2005-2007), Marco Scarinci helps explain how Farnese have managed to become one of the most consistent and highly rated producers in the Italian wine industry.

1. What is your favourite grape to work with and why?

Our favourite red grape to work with is Montepulciano for a number of reasons. It expresses the winemaking tradition of Abruzzo, and produces reds with great structure and tannins for long living. In the past this grape had huge production problems. More than 180 tons per hectare it was of low quality and mainly sold as bulk wine in Northern Italy to be blended with other grape varietals. Only in the last twenty years has quality really increased, with lower yields (no more than 10 tons per hectare), modern vinification techniques, new technology and more attention in the vineyard. The final result is a unique experience. It is easy to appreciate and drink.

With regards to a white grape, we love the indigenous grape varietal called Pecorino. It’s pretty new in the worldwide wine scene, but with a long tradition in Northern Italy. It has delicate and unforgettable aromas and flavours.

2. Considering the vast volumes of wine produced in Italy, what has made Farnese stand out from the crowd? What do you believe is your key to success?

Farnese was born in 1994 when about 85% of production was in the hands of cooperative wine growers’ associations and only very few of them bottled the wines they produced. They produced wines that were sold with no name to bottling companies from other regions. Throughout the years, the vine-growers experienced the value of their grapes decline more and more among vast quantities and average quality, so a greater appreciation of the regional wines was required.

This is the reason why we started our so called “Quality Project”, to which there was a prize for the vine-growers who chose to produce good quality grapes. Each vine-grower may ask the cooperative to which they belong to become a member of the “Farnese Quality Project”, our technicians will then inspect the vineyard and see whether the vineyard is capable of producing grapes of a high enough quality. Once the technicians have given their approval, an agreement is made with the producer according to which the vine-grower shall work under the careful supervision of our technicians that make sure they carry out their work as instructed. This includes a strict observation of the maximum quantities that each vineyard may produce and if this exceeds the limit at the beginning of August, then they will choose the amount of grapes that have to be removed from the vines in order to have the quantities required. All vine-growers taking part in our quality project do not get paid for the amount of grapes they produce but the quality of their stock as a result of lower yields per hectare.

Another aspect is related to the winemaking style, which is very far from the traditional approach to vinification. A more modern approach with the focus on indigenous grape varietals which produce easy drinking wines with expressive fruit and less of the heavy oak usage.

Essentially, we have been successful because we have a good team who are young, professional and very motivated. We have built up a good brand and we understand how the market is changing and how to act quickly.

3. What is your favourite everyday drinking wine, and what would be your desert island wine (if you could only ever have one more wine)?
With regards to the red absolutely Montepulciano d’Abruzzo because it is so strictly related to our history and traditions, while for the white Pecorino. My desert island wine would be Lagrein from Trentino Alto Adige.

4. If you could no longer grow grapes in Italy, where would you go to grow them?
We would like to go to Argentina or South Africa because there is great potential there.

5. What is your long-term outlook for the Italian wine industry?
The Italian wine industry has changed somewhat in the last few years, but the real chance and opportunity is in the worldwide market. We need to promote ourselves and invest more and more in the indigenous grape varieties which give a real expression of our territory.

Thanks to Marco Scarinci, Farnese.

Our range from Farnese.

Long Neck Wines have been with us from the beginning. The instantly recognisable packaging is only the start, as they are wines that genuinely live up to their price tag and help keep South Africa’s reputation as a trustworthy producer of quality wines firmly intact.

Credit must go to the purchasing expertise of head wine boffin Duncan McEuen, one of the ‘three amigos’ at Long Neck. Another man behind the giraffe, and another of the three amigos, is Archie Cameron. He tells us that while the USA remains an important market for Long Neck, the migration to other parts of the world have helped turn it into a truly successful global brand. They have even made it to the Antarctic!

1. What is the highlight of making your own wine and what part of the process do you most enjoy?

The highlight for me is walking into the winery and smelling that unique musky and heady combination of wood and grape. It is quite literally, intoxicating!

Not wishing to sound overly capitalistic but I do love watching a container depart for some far away place. That’s always exciting. Sending our wine to Australia, where they make their own very fine wines, is doubly so!

I got a real buzz when I was told that our wines were very popular in one of the Antarctic research stations. Can’t get much further away than that! Check out the photos.

2. Is there a grape variety (perhaps more than one) that you believe is the worlds best when grown in South Africa?

We grow most of the various grape varietals here in South Africa, but to single out one and say it is the best in the world would be presumptuous. My personal favorite is Chardonnay, although our best seller is Shiraz.

3. If you couldn’t make wine in South Africa any more, where would you go?

I suspect South America. I have never visited Argentina or Chile but I think I could enjoy the ‘Hispanic’ way of life more so than say Oz or NZ. Europe is too crowded for me! Needless to say they are great countries for wine production.

4. What was the inspiration for the Long Neck brand?

When we came up with the idea of the label, we wanted to say ‘young, trendy, cool, hip and South African’ all in one go! I think we have succeeded.

5. What do you feel is the long-term outlook for the South African wine industry?

Excellent! More people will experience South African wines this year than ever before, because of the World Cup. I reckon that our wines will become regular items on everyday shopping lists.

Thanks to Archie Cameron and Lucy Godfrey at Long Neck Wines.

Our range from Long Neck.

In our most comprehensive and fascinating interview yet, we talk to the man behind Gordon Ramsay’s house wine.

As it turns out, he’s a bit of a celebrity himself after being featured on BBC 2’s Big Wine Adventure alongside James May and Oz Clarke. Gavin Quinney, head winemaker at Chateau Bauduc, tells us all.

1. We understand that you were hit by some freak weather last May. What’s the outlook for your ‘09 release?

It’s no secret that 2009 was a fabulous vintage in Bordeaux, as the weather was extraordinary. My take on the vintage straight after the harvest was here on liv-ex. Unfortunately, we were badly hit by not one, but two hailstorms in May. It was pretty depressing.

The Clos des Quinze, which you guys have been kindly selling for us, took a pasting, so there isn’t a CDQ ‘09. To make matters trickier, even ‘petit chateaux’ cannot just slip out and buy grapes and blend them with your ‘Chateau’ wine, as you would if you were a winery or an estate brand in, say, New Zealand. So we went off and leased another lovely vineyard from a diligent grower called Pascal. Of course, we weren’t to know in advance that it would be a good vintage, so it was a double or quits bet.

The result is a mixed bag. The white and rosé are very good, (although I mention the hailstorms on the back-label of the white in case regulars notice a change) but for me the jury’s out on our red. I’ll have to wait and see how it evolves, but if the red isn’t up to speed, I’ll sell it off to a negociant to put it into their Bordeaux brand. This won’t be good for the finances but I don’t want customers to have a high expectation of our 2009 red and be disappointed.

I’d also suggest that people be slightly wary of what they buy from hail-damaged areas - some 19000 hectares were affected. Everyone I know around here made up the shortfall from other vineyards which weren’t hit.

2. Was it a surprise to have Oz Clarke and James May pop in to Chateau Bauduc during the filming of BBC 2’s Big Wine Adventure?

Not really, because it was planned long in advance with the BBC. I’d first met Oz in the early nineties when I entered a blind tasting competition in England, and we’d always got on well. When we pitched up with our wines at the Wine Show in London, a consumer event, he came to our stand quite a bit and said he’d make sure we were included in his BBC travels.

He later stayed with us at Bauduc with his publisher, and I have never drunk so much wine in my life as we merrily opened bottles from my cellar. He has an amazing palate, even when trolleyed. James May is a very bright spark, and knows more than he’s allowed to let on. It was a fun day.

3. Is there a particular grape variety that you believe really excels in Bordeaux, perhaps like nowhere else in the world?

I travelled quite a bit before settling here, so I’ve enjoyed Cabernet in Coonawaara, Malbec in Mendoza, and so on. I would really like to experience Napa but I never got around to it.

My ten years at Chateau Bauduc have shown me that it’s all about what works in your own particular vineyard. I love Cabernet Sauvignon, but the Cabernet here didn’t ripen properly, so I ripped most of it out and replaced it with Sauvignon Blanc on the cooler slopes. That said, I think Cabernet Sauvignon is king in the special areas of Pauillac and St-Julien, on the Left Bank overlooking the Gironde. I’m obviously not the only one to think that, judging by the spiraling prices. There are some great wines though, steeped in Cabernet, that won’t break the bank but you need to be patient. Cabernet doesn’t come in at quite the same level of alcohol as Merlot - a degree or so less - so in 2009 I reckon the Left Bank wines might have a tad more elegance and better balance.

Cabernet Franc is wonderful on the Right Bank, as a constituent in Pomerol and the better bits of St-Emilion. You don’t have to take out a mortgage on wines like Cheval Blanc and Ausone, where it’s 50%+ of the blend. Try La Tour Figeac next door to Cheval Blanc for a fraction of the price, or Canon La Gaffeliere, below Ausone. Loire Cab Franc is great - Saumur Champigny and so on - but it’s quite different.

Having said all that, Merlot can be awesome - especially on the plateau of Pomerol. Forget the school fees, send them to the local establishment and tuck into some cases of L’Evangile, for example, post 2004. Of course, there’s a lot of shite Merlot on high yielding rootstocks planted in fields that are better for nurturing other crops. Growers of this tedious stuff will have to pack up at some point, as there’s no market for weedy gnats piss.

At the cheaper end, there are some excellent dry whites. Although the great white wines of Bordeaux like Haut Brion are, er, great, head happily over to the better growers of the Entre Deux Mers for lovely, reasonably priced dry whites. Some, like us, stick with Bordeaux as the appellation. I can’t claim that Sauvignon Blanc is better here than Marlborough, Sancerre, etc but there are pockets of Bordeaux where it works brilliantly most years.

Sémillon is underrated, (good Sauternes in years like 2001 and 2007 - what value) but I don’t go for dry Muscadelle - too, well, grapey.

4. What restricted grape variety would you most like to grow in Bordeaux if regulations allowed?

I’m trying out a few illegal vines in my ‘garden’ - all the usual suspects. I’ll have to let you know how we get on. Unlike Burgundy, we can plant several varieties, and with different clones and a choice of rootstocks. There are quite a few decisions to be made already. I’d like to try Syrah and Pinot Noir and a few whites. I doubt Riesling would work, but I’ll see how my plants get on.

5. Can you tell our readers a little more about your connection with celebrity chef’s Gordon Ramsay and Rick Stein?

When we started making wine in 1999, I thought it would be good to have it on the list in top restaurants. Some wine merchants said ‘there’s no market for Bordeaux whites, thanks’ (aka piss off) and they were right. Not many people ask for it in the way that you’d ask for Pinot Grigio, New Zealand Sauvignon, Gruner Veltliner or whatever today. But I don’t think people care as long as there are some sound recommendations for the wine, and celebrated chefs seemed an obvious choice.

I was invited to lunch by a friend to Ramsay’s eponymous restaurant in Chelsea, as a thank you. I met Ronan Sayburn the sommelier and we got on well. I think Ronan was quite surprised by our first white that we’d made - he really liked it. What swung the deal was some keen pricing to match their existing house wine, but more importantly, I made up some dummy labels with Gordon’s signature on. These went down a storm, they selected us and soon after he won his 3rd Michelin Star.

It’s no mean feat that he’s kept the three stars for nearly a decade, although the press these days prefer to focus on any bad news surrounding Gordon. I have always found him and his father-in-law Chris Hutcheson, who is CEO, to be charming - and they’re very supportive of us. The sommeliers make their own choices, so I go and do a tasting fairly regularly, or they come to us. They list our whites, reds and our new, pale Provencal-like rosé.

I’ve known Rick Stein and his business partner, his ex-wife Jill, for many years now. Similarly to the Ramsay story, I went over to Cornwall some ten years ago and saw Roni, Jill’s sister, who is the head sommelier and a really nice person. Rick then visited us out here, as did Roni a bit later. Rick then made Bauduc one of his Special Selections on the front page of his list (I imagine his ‘food heroes’ must have had that same feeling when picked).

I guess we see them all about once a year - the new look Seafood Restaurant is a special place. My wife Angela and I are fond of Rick, Jill, and Roni, and Rupert the General Manager, and I think what they have achieved is fantastic. They have something like 40 rooms in Padstow now, as well as all the restaurants - go and stay, mention the Bauduc/Quinney connection and have a glass on me.

Special thanks to Gavin Quinney, Chateau Bauduc.

Our range from Chateau Bauduc.

David Gonzalez is chief winemaker at Santa Alicia, the winery which picked up Best Chilean Wine Producer at the 2007 International Wine & Spirits Competition. This is the man behind undoubtedly some of the best Chilean wines to reach Irish shores, and we’re really happy to have him answer our questions. (Click here to view the range)

1. What is your favourite grape to work with and why?

I think that almost any grape can be transformed into good wine depending on the passion of the winemaker, but personally I like Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenérè when it comes to our range of reds. The first one is for me one of the most complete varieties to produce wine. You get flavours, aromas, structure, volume, a bit of everything if you now how to work with it. Carmenérè on the other hand represents a challenge to the skills of a winemaker looking for the right time to harvest and the right management in the cellar. Also this variety is becoming Chile’s own and that is also a challenge for the winemakers to get the best from this variety.

2. What is the highlight of making your own wine? What part of the process do you most enjoy?

To make wines that reflect the characteristics of the grape variety and terroir is important for me. I enjoy the process of making wine as a whole, especially the fermentation process when the wine starts to express itself properly. I love tasting the wines at each stage.

3. If you couldn’t make wine in Chile any more, where would you go?

I think I could enjoy making wine anywhere, each place represents a different challenge and with that in mind I have no preference for a country different than Chile.

4. You have an incredible medal collection at Santa Alicia. Is it difficult to maintain these standards?

For us, Medals are not an objective but a result. Keeping or increasing quality standards is a duty which we are truly committed to. Every day we try to improve the quality of our products and have better practices in our processes. It is a daily challenge but it doesn’t necessarily need to be a difficult one.

5. What makes Chile so special as a wine-producing country?

There are many factors that make of Chile a special country for producing wine. Its geography offers you a huge diversity of climates and soils, a long dry and warm season, the long coast with the influence of the Humbolt current and the Andes Mountains. All of them make Chile a paradise for wine growers and wine lovers.

Thanks to David Gonzalez and Santa Alicia.

Our range from Santa Alicia.