The Australian wine industry is today very keen to have consumers buy in to their diversity. Wine Australia, the organisation representing Australian winemakers throughout the world, have put a lot of effort into marketing the regional aspect of their offering, but equally, the influence of the winemaker remains a hot topic.

Years ago many Australian winemakers, and indeed those of other New World countries, would have scoffed at the French term “terroir”. For the French this ‘sense of place’, essentially where the grapes are grown, is the biggest influence on the quality of the wine as each individual plot of land displays its own subtle characteristics in the final product. Nowadays I believe Australia and the rest of the New World are much more respectful of this concept and the best winemakers have wholeheartedly embraced it.

An article by Matthew Dukes in the latest issue of Decanter (May ’11), entitled “The Many faces of Australian Shiraz”, says much about this change in attitude and how it has affected the style of their signature grape variety.

“The modern Shiraz producer is looking to impress with regionality, not volume. We don’t produce a single Australian style but a multitude of regional styles”.

Rob Mann, Cape Mentelle

And it is a more elegant, savoury Shiraz where everyone is now heading according to Andrew Margan of Margan Wines, despite the US palate still yearning for the blockbusters. This is where the winemaker can really make his or her own personal stamp. By picking at a particular time and by using certain winemaking techniques, they can achieve that elegant, fruit-driven, multi-layered, sophisticated style with the good structure and finish to complement. There has also been a shift from American oak to French oak, the latter of which provides a touch more restraint whilst helping to soften tannins further.

Ben Glaetzer claims that Shiraz offers a wide spectrum of flavour because of its extraction potential. In other words, depending on the region and the winemaking technique, Shiraz can go from a light, spicy, drink-now proposition, to a full, rich, fruity blockbuster, and anything in between.

“rather than maximising extraction, as has historically been the intention, many winemakers have become – or are becoming – aware that cooler fermentation, less cap management*, and extended skin contact after fermentation all contribute to a more savoury style of Shiraz.”

Ben Glaetzer, Glaetzer Wines

Jammy, ripe and high in alcohol. That’s all we once knew about Australian Shiraz. Now it is time to formally welcome the new generation.

(*cap management involves pushing down the skins that float to the top of the wine)

It was only a matter of time before New Zealand started being taken seriously for world-class Syrah, and all the experts are now saying that they belong on the same table as Bordeaux. New Zealand’s premium Syrah producing region is Hawkes Bay in the North Island, and more specifically, Gimblett Gravels, which is a tiny 800 hectare appellation considered to be among the country’s best terroir.

John O’Connor, Chairman of the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers’ Association (GGWA), was in high spirits after another outstanding performance by Gimblett Gravels wines in San Francisco. “This just confirms that the results of our Masterclasses in Taupo and London were not one-off’s – now Gimblett Gravels wines from 3 different vintages (2005-2007) have outranked top Bordeaux wines from 2005/6”.

O’Connor goes on to assure people that “…whilst the top wines are made in relatively small volumes at present, the Gimblett Gravels has the capacity to produce more of these ultra-premium quality wines.” Meanwhile, at Liquorland Top 100, Gimblett Gravels 2007 vintage wines dominated the fuller bodied reds categories, securing 2 trophies and 6 gold medals.

Within the Gimblett Gravels district, one best vineyards is La Collina (pictured), which is planted on a steep, terraced hillside facing Roy’s Hill, to the west of Hastings. Here’s what the experts had to say about Bilancia’s La Collina Syrah:

“Produced from grapes grown on a steep, terraced hillside in the Gimblett Gravels district of Hawke’s Bay. The wine is dense with ripe, spice and berry fruit flavours. Like the wines of the northern Rhone it is more about texture and complexity than intense fruit flavours. Good food wine with great potential. A very sophisticated Syrah.” Bob Campbell MW

“La collina is the greatest Syrah to ever come out of New Zealand, and it single-handedly positions this country, for the first time among the great Shiraz producers of the world.” Matthew Jukes and Tyson Stelzer, Taste Food and Wine 2008

Alternatively, there’s the 2007 Bilancia Syrah, which made using grapes from both Gimblett Gravels (85%) and La Collina (15%).

“The Syrah/Viognier (just 3% of the latter) is simply outstanding. Very focused and pure on the silky finish, this is a complete wine, one that rivals some of the best Northern Rhone”. Robert Parkers Buying Guide: 92 points.

Let’s not make a Shiraz of Syrah. They are the same grape, taking the name from the city of Shiraz in Iran, where wine flowed freely for many years before the Prophet Muhammad laid out his cards in the 6th century. Generally labelled Shiraz in Australia and Syrah in France, there is a huge worldwide following for this noble grape variety.

Expect deeply coloured wines with medium or high levels of tannins and acidity. Shiraz is a medium to full bodied wine (again, think of that water vs. milkshake consistency). The subtle spiciness in its aroma, often a combination of cinnamon, rose petals and orange rind, complement flavours of blackberry and black pepper.

Whereas French Syrah would tend to be more restrained, the Aussie Shiraz is generally big, bold and fruit driven. Some may not be for the faint hearted, although they can still be very accessible because of their soft tannins and relatively low acidity. The hot climate is key in this, allowing grapes to ripening thoroughly before harvest, helping to produce wines with intense black fruit, sweet spices and notes of black chocolate. Oak aging may add smoke, vanilla and coconut flavours.

The Northern Rhône in France is the classic region for Old World Syrah. The finest wines are grown on steep terraces that tower above the Rhône Valley. Grapes are harvested by hand and the sunlight and good drainage provide ideal conditions for the production of powerful, complex and age-worthy wines. In the flatter zone of Crozes-Hermitage, you’ll find less expensive wines that often display raspberry-like fruit flavours with hints of black pepper. The higher acidity of the French Syrah’s allow them to match very well with food.

New Zealand (aka ‘Godzone‘) is one of the New World countries that is producing Rhône-like Syrah’s, particularly those of Hawkes Bay in the North Island. Chile is also producing some fascinating Shiraz.

For a big, fruit-driven Shiraz, check out the Heartland Shiraz of Barossa Valley, South Australia, and for a particularly good food wine, the Charles Thomas Crozes Hermitage.

An abbreviation of “God’s Own Country”, Godzone is a phrase popularised by Richard John Seddon, who was Prime Minister of New Zealand from 1893 until his death in 1906.

Could Godzone be the new Rhône? Certainly the Rhône varieties love this place, Syrah and Viognier in particular, especially in Hawke’s Bay.

Syrah, Rhône’s most famous grape variety, has been in New Zealand a long, long time, with the mythical Viognier being introduced in 1992. It was a French clone imported from California, and after coming out of quarantine, it was planted in 1994. These plantings produced New Zealand’s first commercial wine of this variety in the 1997 vintage.

If you read our last blog post, you’ll know that Viognier reached near extinction in the 1960s. Today, there is about 750 hectares of Viognier in the Rhône alone, and it covers around 130 hectares in New Zealand. Over half the plantings are in Hawke’s Bay.

Syrah was also planted in new vineyard sites in 1999 and 2000, with the intention from the outset of combining it with a little Viognier, in the style of a Côte-Rôtie. The two grape varieties must be co-fermented, which means they must be picked at the same time and fermented on skins in the same tank. Trials took place in 2001 with encouraging results and the wine sold at the Hawke’s Bay Winemakers Charity Wine Auction. In 2002, New Zealand’s first Syrah/Viognier wine was made from co-fermented grapes.

With different tanks containing from none to 10% Viognier, the very small number of vineyards producing Viognier (which you could count on one hand) say they have gained a good feeling for the effect of Viognier in Syrah. As well as the colour being deeper, the aroma emphasises the red berry character of the Syrah while adding a perfumed nuance like orange blossom or orange zest. Viognier also alters the palate by making the wine quite juicy or silky. Some say it adds the feminine touch to the masculine muscle of Syrah.

Bilancia of Hawkes Bay is leading the way with Syrah in New Zealand. Michael Cooper of The Listener, handed our Bilancia Syrah/Viognier 2007 an outstanding 4.5 out of 5 – “A classy, serious yet highly approachable Hawkes Bay red with lovely fragrance and depth of ripe, berryish and spicy flavour.”

Bob Campbell (MW) raves about Bilancia’s La Collina: “Produced from grapes grown on a steep, terraced hillside in the Gimblett Gravels district of Hawke’s Bay. The wine is dense with ripe, spice and berryfruit flavours. Like the wines of the northern Rhone it is more about texture and complexity than intense fruit flavours. Good food wine with great potential. A very sophisticated Syrah.”

This is one of the first video recipes I saw from Lookandtaste and it’s what excited me most about their concept. Classic dishes, superbly demonstrated by a top class chef, on demand.

It’s amazing how many people are quite comfortable cooking complex and intricate recipes from books, but hand them a lovely piece of prime steak and they panic. (Sorry, I’m talking third party but I’m one of those people!)

Niall’s demonstration shows how to cook the perfect steak in just a few minutes – this is fast food but with the right cut of meat the same fast food you’ll get in a Michelin-starred restaurant.

A big, juicy steak demands a big, juicy wine and your local wine merchant’s shelves will be packed with appropriate matches. You can get great value Malbecs from Argentina or Chile that are just made for steak – see how our Tesoro de los Andes Malbec-Shiraz performed on Robert Francis Wine – but my first choice will always be Australia and specifically Barossan Shiraz.

The Barossans have almost cornered the market for that big, bold, fruit-burst expression of Shiraz, and their heritage and vines pre-date many of Europe’s most prestigious regions.

Try this (nearly!) organic Earthworks from the Langmeil Winery for bursting black fruit and hints of peppery spice. Or for a bit more complexity and spice treat yourself to the very classy Shiraz/Grenache Wallace from our favourite winemaker Ben Glaetzer. Then get onto Michelin for a star of your own.

I always talk a lot about certain dishes being ones that I love or could not live without but if you had to ask me for one last meal before I died this would have to be it. The film crew on lookandtaste still talk about this as one of their all time favourite dishes out of the 300 or so we have cooked and if it was slightly healthier I would happily eat it every single night of the week.

I would serve it with some simple mashed potatoes and if you cook it correctly and keep it moist you really won’t need a sauce and I guess the only thing that remains to compliment it perfectly is a great bottle of red. As I always say I would go with my old reliable Chateauneuf du Pape but I am fairly sure the boys in Curious Wines will have better ideas than that, over to you boys to match it up…..

Mike’s wine match:

Niall’s gone the complete opposite this week in giving us something that can be matched with a hugely broad spectrum of wines. The basic advice here is, pick a favourite red wine, and provided it’s got a bit of body and preferably a bit of spice, you really can’t go far wrong on this one.

I was drawn initially to France because of the similarity with the French dish filet de bœuf en croût, believed by some to have been the original Beef Wellington before a patriotic British chef renamed it. The beef needs a bit of body and tannin, so Bordeaux‘s always a safe bet, or Niall’s suggestion of the Rhône (home of Chateauneuf) could be equally good. Interestingly the mushrooms could even have you looking to Burgundy for those earthy flavours of a Pinot Noir, the lighter body being compensated by concentration of flavour in the good stuff.

My two suggestions however are a long way from France. It tends to be barbeque season before I jump to Australia for food matches, but a bold and spicy Aussie Shiraz would go fabulously well with this dish – they’re easily understood, available everywhere, and everyone has a favourite. For under a tenner, try the “scrumptious” Last Stand Shiraz reviewed by the lovely Elf in Amsterdam, or if you can stretch to the €15 to €20 bracket this is your chance to try the stellar Glaetzer range with the Wallace, with the classic Shiraz/Grenache blend of the Rhône.

Niall Harbison is Co-Founder and Master Chef at Look and Taste.

Heartland Shiraz continues to achieve that magical double: popularity with both wine experts and the general consumer. The Heartland range comes from the same man responsible for the 100 Parker Point Amon-Ra. In our humble opinion, Ben Glaetzer (pictured left) is one the world’s best winemakers.

The magical double was made official when the 2004 Heartland Shiraz was chosen as best out of a record 762 entries over 15 classes, not only by a panel of judges but also by a separate panel of wine consumers, in the 2005 Advertiser/Hyatt South Australian Wine of the Year competition, judged in its home state capital, Adelaide.

Among its latest credits are a gold medal at Mundus Vini 2007, Germany’s most important wine competition. At home, the 2006 was selected among the Hot 100 South Australian wines by the Adelaide Review magazine and Australia’s Top 100 wines ’07, as selected by the The Advertiser in Adelaide.

Winestate magazine, in its ‘Best Wines of 2007′, gave the 2006 five stars and equal top in its category. Toni Paterson MW in ‘What to Drink 2007′ said: “This wine is over the top in every way… but it has been exceedingly well made – so if you like your wines laden with blackberries, plums, prunes and five spices, you’ll adore this one. It is great value: better than many more expensive wines.”

The last I heard, the ‘wine of the people’ is to start flying high – as the wine selected for serving on board Singapore Airlines business class. It has been so popular with us lately, not just because it’s the perfect winter warmer, but it simply represents incredible value for money. Especially with 10% off until the end of February, you can pick up a bottle for €12.59.

Here’s your (impossible) challenge for the week: Find a wine as good as the Heartland Shiraz in your local supermarket for under 18 quid.

Syrah du Monde is the world’s top competitions for assessing Syrah and aims to find wines showing the best Syrah varietal character. Organised by the Forum Oenologue, a panel of international judges assessed 384 wines from 23 countries, following strict judging conditions and criteria. In the 2008 awards, the Dignité Syrah 2005 received a silver medal – a stellar accolade for the first ever vintage!

Origins, however humble, can produce great wine – provided you see their potential of course. And that’s just what winemaker Eric Monnin has done with Dignité. When the opportunity arises, he becomes a ‘garagiste’ – a term originally used in reference to a group of innovative winemakers in the Bordeaux region, producing “Vins de garage” (Garage wine). These rebel winemakers would aim to produce reds that are bigger, bolder and fruitier (perhaps more in line with the New World philospohy you might say), but essentially making top quality wine in minute quantities.

Such an opportunity arose in 2006 during a private tasting, when a 2005 Syrah was quietly slipped into the mix. An overwhelmed Eric Monnin was completely blown away by the complexity and potential on offer. He was delighted that the grower, whom he knew very well, wanted to entrust him with its élévage in barrel to realise its full potential. Not unlike a top secret military operation, he nicknamed the wine ‘Top Syrah’, and immediately went to work on taking it to the next level.

Eric lovingly oversaw the evolution of the ‘Syrah Top’ over the next 2+ years. He decided to age a small proportion (20%) in new oak for 20 months, whilst the majority 80% he felt needed older barrels for a shorter time and was therefore aged in 2 year old Allier oak barrels for 12 months. The final assemblage is a micro-cuvée of 12,000 bottles of modern classic – a concentrated and very refined Syrah called Dignité.

Although you wouldn’t be mad for thinking this is from Australia, the Dignité Syrah remains classically French, with these 50 year old Syrah vines producing incredibly low yields and carrying a wonderful expression of terrior.

Keep your eyes out next week for our blog post on the Syrah’s younger sister, and Eric’s astonishing sequel to the Dignité series.

Tasting notes for Dignité Syrah 2005: Rich and powerful, brimming with blueberry, black plum and blackberry fruit flavours. The oak aging adds nuances of cedar spice, coffee and cocoa with a final lick of pepper to the silky smooth tannins.

It took a visit to Hunter valley in March 2008 to truly convert me to Aussie Shiraz. It’s big and it’s bold, but it doesn’t always have to be. It could be as elegant and easy drinking as a cup of warm milk.

To celebrate our 10% off all heart warming Shiraz and Shiraz blends this winter, here’s our top 10 did-you-knows on the big red grape (that’s a bonus fact – yes, it’s a big red grape).

1. Shiraz is also known as Syrah and vice versa. The New World (Australia etc.) tend to use the term ‘Shiraz’ a little more than Syrah, although countries like Spain and the USA like to mix it up a little.

2. The exact origins are relatively unknown, but it is likely to have originated in the Northern Rhone. Or was it ancient Persia? Could have been Egypt? Some even believe it was brought to France by St. Patrick. Umm.

3. Most accept that the name comes from the city of Shiraz in the foothills of the Zagros Mountains in what is now Iran.

4. There are more Shiraz plantings in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France than other region in the world. In fact, there’s more planted here than in the whole of Australia!

5. The Shiraz grape has a low tolerance to extreme climate. In the Rhone, the vines need sheltering from wind and in Australia’s Barossa valley drought is often a problem.

6. In general, French Syrah goes well with food because it has a higher level of acid, in comparison to the Aussie Shiraz, which shows a little more fruit. This is a direct result of Australia’s higher temperatures, allowing faster ripening, thus less acidity and more fruit flavours.

7. Shiraz is often blended with other red grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Mourvedre. Interestingly, it can also be blended with white grapes, such as Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier. This helps to soften any harsh tannins. The Tallarook and Keith Tulloch Shiraz Viognier blends have been very popular with our red fans.

8. Most Shiraz is medium in body, although it can give an impression of being full-bodied due to it’s full, rounded feel on the palate.

9. It can also be used to produce exquisite light rosés, such as the delightful South African Long Neck and the classic Californian from Winston Hill.

10. Finally, the fun part. I’ve picked just a few aromas and flavours you could potentially get from a Shiraz, according to our Essential Wine Tasting Guide.

From the grape: Blackberry, black pepper, clove, licorice, plum, raisin, spice

From bottle aging: Chocolate, cigar box, coffee, leather, mushroom, savoury

From barrel aging: Burnt, cedar, coconut, nutty, sawdust, toast, vanilla

With our winter sale on Shiraz, now is your perfect opportunity to experience these aromas and flavours for yourself. Happy drinking!

So a New Year, and new wines to try, and whether you’re a daily tippler or a weekend splasher I hope we’ve something of interest that you can try with a little less stretch on the wallet in January.

We’re unapologetic Shiraz lovers, especially in winter. I just love the full flavours, typically black fruit, preferably with that trademark spice, whether from its adopted home in Australia, it’s traditional home in France and the Rhone, or from the growing number of other countries now producing their own great versions.

We’ve an across-the-range 10% off all Shiraz/Syrah, single varietal and blends, to help warm those cockles in January and February. My top recommendations would be the Barossan Heartland or Earthworks, the simply amazing Vin de Pays Dignite, or, for a bit more, this incredible Crozes Hermitage.

Following the success of our New Zealand Tasting back in November, we thought our Kiwi range would make a great January special, to get over those post-Christmas blues and allow people to try something a bit different. Renowned for world-beating whites – try a Riesling or a Pinot Gris if you’re bored with Sauvignon Blanc – there’s also some very exciting reds, with Syrah and Pinotage in our range beyond the now established and sublime Pinot Noir.

Given the consistency and quality benchmark of New Zealand, they tend not to get discounted as much as other countries, but try 15% off in January as a New Year treat.

In terms of individual ranges discounted, we’ve extended the €2 off on our Lunar Organic Domaine du Chateau d’Eau, largely due to the amazing feedback received in December from delighted new customers. Particularly if you’re looking for a bit of a detox without (heaven forbid) total abstinence, these biodynamically driven wines have been a big hit with organic lovers in West Cork.

For the same reasons, we’ve put the Decanter silver medal winning Orballo Albarino on special. Customers trying a bottle have been coming back and buying by the case from our Bandon warehouse so it’s about time the rest of the country discovered this cracker from Rias Baixas in Spain.

Finally, we thought we’d add a little thank-you to the (frankly) humbling number of people who have joined the Curious Wines Club, by offering an extra bottle in our already great value mixed cases. So, if you’re a member just order as normal and we’ll pop in your free bottle, or if you’re not sign-up and you’re automatically eligible.

Wishing you a happy journey in your 2009 wine adventures,

Mike