Oak is has a vital role to play for the vast majority of wine producers. It can help tame the astringent elements of young wine and help provide structure and longevity. Colour, flavour, tannin and the texture of wine can all be influenced by the use of oak.

Oak is water tight, yet it is porous, so it allows the wine to breath, so much so that a proportion of water and alcohol will evaporate out of the cask and help concentrate and further harmonise the remaining contents. Oxygen passing into the wine helps to soften tannins, improving those bitter, dry characteristics.

France and America are the two main origins of oak used in the wine industry. In Italy, Slovenian oak is a popular choice. The price of oak can vary greatly, with French generally fetching a higher price. Certain forests in France, such as Limousin, may attract more than US$900 per barrel.

American Oak has wider grains and will impart a more ‘oaky’ taste with hints of vanilla. You’ll find a lot of Australian winemakers use American oak to bring secondary flavours to their powerful reds. It is also the oak of choice in Spain. French oak has a tighter grain and whilst being less oaky, it contains more tannins and has a more complex flavour profile.

Toasting is used by a cooper (barrel maker) to bend the wood into shape. The toasted side of the panels will face inwards, becoming in contact with the wine. On heavily toasted wood, the wine might acquire a caramelised flavour. Light toasting should impart a more restrained nutty smokiness.

This is where the skill and experience of the winemaker comes into play. What type of oak to use and how long to age the wine for. Whether to use new oak barrels, old barrels or even oak staves. Everything from the size and type of barrel to the time in barrel. Inevitably, final price will also be affected.

It’s the last thing we want, and it’s something that has alarmed many wine consumers and critics alike. The growing international standardisation of wine styles is a threat to the wine drinker who appreciates wine with distinction and character.

There is an obsession with technology these days that allows mass production on a consistent level. This, of course, isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Some of these conglomerates are producing massive volumes of inoffensive and affordable plonk that serves as an entry point for those who’ll eventually seek something different and more exciting.

The concern is that this practice will spread further, to the point that it will be difficult for consumers, including you and I here in Ireland, to find wines that are true to their terroir, varietal and skill of truly talented winemakers. Robert Parker (The Wine Advocate) compares the worst scenario to that of brands of whiskey or vodka.

Ultimately, there’s a section of the market that demands low priced wine that’s drinkable, which is absolutely understandable and fair enough, but some winemakers need to learn to take a few risks, even at the expense of offending some consumers. It’s getting more and more difficult to tell an Italian Chardonnay from one made in France or California for example.

In late 2005, the EU voted through a total of six wine making practices until now associated much more readily with the New than the Old World. One of these included the use of oak chips, a cheaper alternative to oak ageing with barrels. So is this another sign of standardisation? There was a bit of a kick up at the time, but each country can manage these as they wish. You’re not going to find oak chips being used in the top appellations of France any time soon, for example.

I can’t see the wine industry ever turning into something like that of whiskey and vodka. One of the great attributes of wine is how the style can change so dramatically between country and varietal, but I also believe it’s good to have inexpensive and accessible wine. The important message is simply for vintners to never lose sight of the art and craft of producing wines that are unique to their own land and wine making techniques. And for consumers to stay curious and adventure beyond Generic Brand Vin de Plonk.

For many winemakers the process of oak aging is as important as, say, choosing where to grow the grapes or when to harvest them. The complexity of flavours that can be derived from oak can help transform a wine into a different animal all together, and as well as adding a broader range of aromas and flavours, it will also have an affect on colour and tannin levels.

Oak is porous, so when a wine is ageing there are chemical changes that take place that wouldn’t happen in stainless steel tanks. The contact with the air helps tannins to soften and oak flavours to slowly leech into the wine. The influence oak will have on the wine depends on several factors:

Origin of oak: French oak is traditionally viewed as being the best to use, and typically carries a price tag to match. While they are Europe’s most important source of oak, the United States is the biggest commercial grower of oak in the Americas. French oak will result in quite subtle flavours in comparison to American oak, which is generally more powerful, adding sweet vanilla-like overtones.

Size of container: The larger the barrel, the less wine will be in contact with the surface area of the barrel itself.

Age of container: New oak will impart more flavour into the wine. For top wines an oak barrel may only be used once or twice before being used for mid-range productions.

Time in container: The more time spent in oak, the more flavours the wine will take on. It may need less time in new oak because it will impart stronger flavours quickly.

The judgement of the winemaker is paramount in all of the above. He or she must decide where to source their oak, the size of the barrels or barriques, how many times they will use them, and the amount of time required to strike the perfect balance and achieve the style of desired.

Obviously, the number of times the barrels are used, the larger they are and their origin, will have a considerable effect on production costs, but often the best wines are oak aged in quality oak and in small quantities. Cheaper wines can be made by stirring in oak chips in some countries, and really cheap, mass-produced wines can have essence of oak added.

You may find with some inexpensive wines that the oak isn’t that well integrated, and can taste unpleasant. This is particularly true of whites, the danger being of course that one might say they don’t like oaky wines. If you are one of these people, don’t give up, just pick your wines properly. Seek advice if required, or do a little reading around.

Oak used smartly doesn’t mean you have to pay silly money. A number of wines available under the €10 mark in your local supermarket will have oak flavours added, but our Santa Alicia Chardonnay is the perfect example of oak done well and honestly.