The Graves, the Côtes & between the rivers
More From: Curious Facts & Fun
Posted April 20th, 2010 by Matt Kane | No Comments
Opening a Clive Coates MW Bordeaux book at any page is like learning to read all over again, and those who are seriously proficient in Bordeaux may well bore you to death. If you have kept up with my previous two posts this month (click this link and scroll down), whether you’re looking for an entry point into Bordeaux, or you actually are the next Clive Coates, I really hope my attempt at making Bordeaux more interesting and user-friendly is working.
Pictured above, the boys at Chateau Bauduc getting their hands dirty. The wines made here come under ‘Appellation Contrôlée’ Premières Côtes de Bordeaux. They also make Bordeaux Supérieur red wines and Bordeaux Blancs. This might make more sense by the time you’ve read this post.
Last week we had a look at the left bank and the right bank and found out what they actually mean. Here’s the best of the rest (well, pretty much)
The Graves
Bordeaux’s great name was established in the Graves. From the 11th century onwards it exported to numerous markets gaining an unparalleled reputation, particularly with the English, and to this day they still produce wines that hold their own with the regions finest.
Graves means gravel in French, and there’s no shortage of gravel in this part of the world. We’re just south of the Médoc here, roughly following the left bank of the Garonne river, so like the Médoc, the Graves will also come under the “left bank” tag. The most notable appellation in the area is Pessac-Léognan.
The main variety is Cabernet Sauvignon, with a higher percentage of Merlot being used in their mineral scented, earthy red blends compared to that of their northern neighbours. Of all Bordeaux whites, the Graves is thought to have some of the best. Around a quarter of production is white, dominated by Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc.
The Côtes
It’s almost unfair to put the five Côtes areas under one heading. Situated on the right bank of the Garonne and Dordogne rivers lie Blaye, Bourg, Castillon, Francs and the Premières Côtes de Bordeaux – not all together of course. That would just make it too easy.
Côtes de Blaye and Côtes de Bourg lie on the right bank across the Gironde river from the Médoc. Côtes de Castillon and Côtes de Francs are located inland from Saint-Émilion, and all are producing plenty of good quality reds, and a little white.
Each area though, has very identifiable styles of wine due to soil composition and micro-climate, but that doesn’t stop them trying to market their wines together under the ‘Côtes de Bordeaux’ label. Watch out for the actual (or is it the afterthought?) regional name which will also be included on the label.
Entre-Deux-Mers (between the rivers)
This is the large, rather forgotten area of land that lies between the Dordogne and Garonne rivers. It’s an appellation in itself for the production of dry white wines, but there is quite a bit of decent red, rosé and white under ‘Bordeaux AC’, which implies regional Bordeaux. In other words if it’s not a specified white, they can’t use the Entre-Deux-Mers name on the label. This is in accordance with the specific laws of the appellation.
There are other appellations between the rivers, such as the aforementioned Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, which supposedly produces the best red wines in this relatively vast area. Good dry whites are made here too, but they will also come under ‘Bordeaux AC’.
Sweet white wines
Is this Bordeaux just showing off? I don’t think so. They actually do produce a lot of super-fine sweet wines. It possesses a number of areas, which are few and far between when you look worldwide, where the conditions are perfect for noble rot. The dominant grape is Sémillon, and it makes for some delicious dessert wine.
Sauternes and Barsac are the most well-known for these luscious wines, with the likes of Cérons producing lighter styled sweet whites.
20% off all Bordeaux wines for the month of April (prices discounted at checkout)
















