I’ve touched on it before, Italy really is a treasure chest for unexplored grape varieties and wine styles. Unless you’ve been studying viticulture in Italy for half of your life, you’ll only be looking at the very tip of the iceberg. In the grand scheme of things, no matter how much we drink on our travels, we’ll never see the whole picture. That’s the best thing about wine. You never stop learning and enjoying new experiences.

One of the many indigenous Italian varieties is Pecorino, an early-ripening white grape found throughout Abruzzo, Umbria and Lazio. Pecorino is not to be confused with the ancient Tuscan cheese of the same name. I discovered this classic cheese in Rome last year. It’s more of an ‘everyday’ cheese, not at the same level as Parmesan, but a good bit easier on the wallet. I made quick work of a block of it and a bottle of Dolcetto on my last night there. And what a night it was.

The Pecorino grape, something of an endangered species in the big brand wine world, makes subtle, characterful wines. Farnese’s Marco Scarinci told Curious Wines how the future of the Italian wine industry rests on promoting and priding itself on indigenous varieties which give a real expression of their territory. It’s like trying to give Italy that ‘treasure chest’, boutiquey edge, making it a source of incredible riches, and very importantly, choice for all those curious wine drinkers who love to try different things.

Pecorino, adorned by Scarinci, is not a sweet fruit bomb with adrenalin inducing acidity. It is what it is. A product of the land, the winemaker and the variety itself. Farnese’s Pecorino is a great example. It’s a wine made with the same gusto that transformed their Trebbiano white into the International Wine Challenge Wine of the Year.

Delicate, but concentrated, with just a little oak for added complexity there’s a tantalising minerality on the nose leading to a concentrated, crisp palate with real depth and class and a lovely long finish. Expect balsamic notes and aromas of apples and pears on the nose; excellent body, intensity and persistence, with an ideal balance of mellowness and freshness.

That’s good Pecorino all over. It’s not trying to be anything else. Except when it’s cheese.

Which country produces more wine in terms of volume than any other country in the world?

The answer is not France, but Italy. According to Wikipedia, Italy was responsible for the production of 8.5 million tonnes of wine in 2007, with France languishing behind in 2nd with 6.5 million tonnes. Believe it or not, China was in 3rd with 6.25 million tonnes.

So what’s the big deal with Abruzzo?

Abruzzo is a mountainous wine producing region in central Italy which lies to the east of Rome. In terms of volume, it ranks fifth in Italy.

The wines are average at best, right?

That’s quite a sweeping statement, but it’s true that there is a lot of very boring wines coming out of Abruzzo. This is largely due to such high yields and poor care of the vines. Much of the wine is consumed as table wine or used in blending, but like many of these places it has some fine exceptions. Those who have access to the best plots of land and are managing the vineyards in the right way are making very drinkable wines with real quality from the likes of the Montepulciano and Trebbiano grapes.

Montepulciano. You’ve lost me now.

Montepulciano is one of Italy’s red grape varieties. It enjoys the warm climate and hilly vineyards of Abruzzo, and since growers have started to get their act together they are now delivering real value. You can get light and fruity styles, but there are also more serious, more robust examples, some of which have had time in oak.

What if I’m looking for a nice white wine?

Trebbiano is the white grape of Abruzzo. It’s the sort of grape that gets slated because it will grow just anywhere and in vast quantities at that, but you could say it’s a bit of a dark horse. Naturally high in acidity, low in alcohol and often more savoury than fruity, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is by definition a classic food wine, if often limited to good quality table wine status. It is known as Ugni-Blanc in France, where it is also widely grown.

Any other nice wines or wineries to look out for?

Pecorino is a white grape variety indigenous to Abruzzo. It’s quite full-bodied, not unlike Pinot Grigio, but again a great food wine and very distinctive to the region. If you’re of the curious minded, well worth a try. For a better insight into a top Abruzzo winery, click here to view our interview with Farnese.

The Farnese range is on sale for the month of May.

If you haven’t heard of them yet, you really don’t know what you’re missing. Italian Winery of the Year three years running (IWSC, 2005-2007), Marco Scarinci helps explain how Farnese have managed to become one of the most consistent and highly rated producers in the Italian wine industry.

1. What is your favourite grape to work with and why?

Our favourite red grape to work with is Montepulciano for a number of reasons. It expresses the winemaking tradition of Abruzzo, and produces reds with great structure and tannins for long living. In the past this grape had huge production problems. More than 180 tons per hectare it was of low quality and mainly sold as bulk wine in Northern Italy to be blended with other grape varietals. Only in the last twenty years has quality really increased, with lower yields (no more than 10 tons per hectare), modern vinification techniques, new technology and more attention in the vineyard. The final result is a unique experience. It is easy to appreciate and drink.

With regards to a white grape, we love the indigenous grape varietal called Pecorino. It’s pretty new in the worldwide wine scene, but with a long tradition in Northern Italy. It has delicate and unforgettable aromas and flavours.

2. Considering the vast volumes of wine produced in Italy, what has made Farnese stand out from the crowd? What do you believe is your key to success?

Farnese was born in 1994 when about 85% of production was in the hands of cooperative wine growers’ associations and only very few of them bottled the wines they produced. They produced wines that were sold with no name to bottling companies from other regions. Throughout the years, the vine-growers experienced the value of their grapes decline more and more among vast quantities and average quality, so a greater appreciation of the regional wines was required.

This is the reason why we started our so called “Quality Project”, to which there was a prize for the vine-growers who chose to produce good quality grapes. Each vine-grower may ask the cooperative to which they belong to become a member of the “Farnese Quality Project”, our technicians will then inspect the vineyard and see whether the vineyard is capable of producing grapes of a high enough quality. Once the technicians have given their approval, an agreement is made with the producer according to which the vine-grower shall work under the careful supervision of our technicians that make sure they carry out their work as instructed. This includes a strict observation of the maximum quantities that each vineyard may produce and if this exceeds the limit at the beginning of August, then they will choose the amount of grapes that have to be removed from the vines in order to have the quantities required. All vine-growers taking part in our quality project do not get paid for the amount of grapes they produce but the quality of their stock as a result of lower yields per hectare.

Another aspect is related to the winemaking style, which is very far from the traditional approach to vinification. A more modern approach with the focus on indigenous grape varietals which produce easy drinking wines with expressive fruit and less of the heavy oak usage.

Essentially, we have been successful because we have a good team who are young, professional and very motivated. We have built up a good brand and we understand how the market is changing and how to act quickly.

3. What is your favourite everyday drinking wine, and what would be your desert island wine (if you could only ever have one more wine)?
With regards to the red absolutely Montepulciano d’Abruzzo because it is so strictly related to our history and traditions, while for the white Pecorino. My desert island wine would be Lagrein from Trentino Alto Adige.

4. If you could no longer grow grapes in Italy, where would you go to grow them?
We would like to go to Argentina or South Africa because there is great potential there.

5. What is your long-term outlook for the Italian wine industry?
The Italian wine industry has changed somewhat in the last few years, but the real chance and opportunity is in the worldwide market. We need to promote ourselves and invest more and more in the indigenous grape varieties which give a real expression of our territory.

Thanks to Marco Scarinci, Farnese.

Our range from Farnese.

Ah, the white Pinot G, the quintessential summer wine, popular with those who enjoy a light lunch on a summers afternoon, or those who can’t get enough of those warm summer barbecues. But is it Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris? Well, since they are the same grapes, we are talking about a case of style here, with Grigio being the leaner version and Gris being the chubbier of the two. Generally speaking of course.

Pinot Grigio is the term derived from Italy, where this close relative to Pinot Blanc has become very popular. There is more produced here than anywhere else in the world. They would say they’re making the world’s best, but the French Alsatians would have a few things to say about that. In the New World it is New Zealand that has recently been making the most notable Pinot Gris.

In Italy, the best of this varietal probably comes from the northeast. They are typically dry, medium or light in body, with high acidity, and unoaked with delicate citrus and green fruit flavours (green apple, lemon). As a result, they are good to go with a huge variety of foods. The dry, acidic versions are particularly well paired with shellfish and other seafood.

Alsace Pinot Gris’ are typically full-bodied, dry, medium or sweet, with spicy tropical flavours (ginger, banana, melon), sometimes with hints of honey.  The secret to Alsace Pinot Gris lies not only in the climate, but also the soil. Rich, minerally soil flavours mingle with the substantial acidity to create that unique Alsace stamp.

Look out for possibly the most fruit driven wines of this variety. Pinot G has recently begun to flourish in New Zealand, which now offers some fantastic alternatives to Europe, often with more prominent flavours of pear, nectarine, peach and apple.

Interestingly, the Pinot G grape itself is pink, so it’s possible to make Rosé wines by fermenting the juice with the grape skins remaining. This allows for a lovely pink colour to develop, with all the varietal characteristics left intact.

Here are a few suggestions from our own range that will make you realise just what a difference the styles and regions can make.

Farnese Pinot Grigio: Classic Italian Pinot Grigio from Italian Winery of the Year three years in a row.

Mirabello Pinot Grigio Rosé: A crisp, lively Pinot Grigio Rose, from juice that was left in contact with the skins for 12 hours before gentle pressing.

The Ned Pinot Grigio: Brent Marris, responsible for one of the most remarkable Sauvignon Blanc’s to come out of New Zealand in previous years, has produced this memorable, fruity New World Pinot G labelled “Grigio”.

Blanck Pinot Gris: Now we’re getting serious. This is classic, top end Alace Pinot Gris, with the minerality forementioned, coupled with delicate fruit flavours.

OK, after me. Mon – tuh – pull – cha – noh. (Hold the ‘a’ in ‘cha’ for effect, and to convince everyone you’ve a true grasp of the lingo.)

Now, dah – broots – oh.

As Italy’s number one DOC export, it’s probably one of the most recognisable old world wines there is, but it is a bit of a mouthful.

The ‘Montepulciano’ bit is both a grape and a small town in southern Tuscany, the ‘Abruzzo’ the mountainous region extending to the Adriatic across the middle of Italy.

Montepulciano the grape is a prolific red variety, notable for producing two distinct styles of wine – one, a light-to-medium fruity style designed for drinking young (exactly like our Farnese DOC), and the other a more austere, deep coloured wine with ripe, robust tannins (exactly like our Farnese DOCG).

At its worst, Montepulciano makes a great blending wine, and is a permitted variety in 20 of Italy’s 95 provinces. At its best, in particular in the Abruzzo, it produces wines rich in local character and flavours, from wild fruit, to herbs, to gamey influences.

To address issues of over-production and inconsistency, 2003 saw the introduction of Abruzzo’s first DOCG – the higher level regulation on wine production, standing for Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita – for Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane, for Montepulciano grown in the optimal hillside sites around Teramo in northern Abruzzo. Farnese’s DOCG is a testament to this intent, acclaimed by Robert Parker as “one to buy by the car-load”.

Abruzzo is a hot-bed of tradition and great cuisine, and is famed for its strong flavours and use of spice in its cured meats and recipes. The mountainous terrain makes lamb the meat of choice, and pecorino, from sheep’s milk, the favoured cheese. Peperoncino, a hot chilli pepper, is a local favourite and a key ingredient in agnello all’arrabbiata or ‘angry lamb’.

This array of rich and spicy food suit our Montepulcianos to perfection. Acidity, spice, fruitiness and soft tannins that just melt with a forkful of lamb or a slice of pecorino.

So next time you go Italian, look beyond the Chianti and try a mouthful of Dah-broots-oh.

Farnese’s Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC is a Curious Pick for March – buy two for €8.49 each, saving €3.

When the Romans started to recognise wine for its commercial possibilities, the aim was to produce as much wine as possible. But not today. It is only really in the last 40 years that Italy has really started to raise the bar, as export markets demanded a rival to France. They are now associated with some of the best-made wines in the world.

One of the must-see countries of the world, Italy boasts a rich history (dating back some 200,000 years) and strong cultural traditions, with wine and food always playing a central role. So here’s our Top 5 did-you-knows on Italy’s favourite accompaniment to food…

1. The early Italian vineyards were planted by Greek settlers, thought to be as early as 800BC. The Romans were probably the first to produce wine for keeping. They put the wine into storage jars with a layer of olive oil to prevent oxidation.

2. The Italian government has officially recognised the traditional wines of Italy and has set up a system, similar to France, in an attempt to categorise quality. If you see IGT on a bottle, it is a table wine (like VdP in France). DOC is the next level up and DOCG is the highest status conferred to Italian wines.

3. The range of grape varieties grown in Italy is vast. There are believed to be more than 1,000 common grape vines. Many are native to Italy and not found elsewhere in the world. Among the most popular reds are Montepulciano and Nebbiolo, while Pinot Grigio and Trebbiano are the best known white varieties.

4. Italian wine is designed for food. It’s not just Italian food that they will accompany. The crisp acidity of Italy’s whites cut through the richness of classic French dishes, and the liveliness of many reds provides a thirst-quenching relief with Tex-Mex. Name the food, and they’ll match it!

5. Chianti Classico is one of the most recognisable DOCG wines, and a favourite of Dr. Hannibal Lecter. It must be made from the Sangiovese grape (although blending with others varietals is allowed) and have a minimum alcohol content of 12%. Chianti Classico must have an alcohol level of at least 12.5% and three years aging prior to release.

Set to take Bandon, Cork and Ireland by storm, the Curious party had been meticulously planned to perfection. The heat lamps were set, the food was plated and the wine was waiting to be opened.

Half an hour before our first guests arrived we were plunged into darkness. Panic set in. Should we get our hands on candles, shine the car headlights through the shop front window or cancel all together? No. No way was this epic occasion going to be scrapped. Thank goodness it was only a blown fuse.

With the curtain being raised and the lights back on, the wine began to flow, and didn’t stop until the early hours. The wines opened received great feedback, and surprise that they were all under a tenner.

"Under a tenner? Even better!"

In the red corner, the Farnese Montepulciano was adored for its light body and drink ability, while the chocolatey Long Neck Merlot and fruity Last Stand Shiraz warmed the bellies of the frigid.

A few arrived with a stigma for Chardonnay, but were quickly converted by Santa Alicia’s Reserve Chardonnay, with its astonishing clean mineral and tropical flavours. A number of guests left at the end of the night with cases of Sierra Grande’s Sauvignon Blanc under arm, while Paarl Heights smooth Chenin Blanc held the South African flag high and proud.

A few sore heads the next day, but it was another opportunity for Curious Wines to let her hair down and have a bit of fun. Like we do everyday.

We would like to say a big thank-you to all who attended on the night, and to Andy, Donal and Edel of Honest Food for their superb contribution. Our great wine was well matched by their great canapés.