You could almost look at Eden Valley as being an extension of the Barossa. They are right next door to each other, but the higher altitude gives Eden a significantly cooler climate. Many Barossan producers grow their cooler climate varieties here. It covers an area as large as Barossa Valley, although it is not as densely planted.

The first to plant vines in Eden was Joseph Gilbert. He grew Riesling, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. His first vintage was in 1852 and his Riesling of 1854 was famous at the time for its brilliance. The reputation of the region has been helped by the Henschke family and Yalumba. In 1952 Cyril Henschke decided to bottle and label Mount Edelstone Shiraz, a wine which helped put Eden Valley on the map. In a move that started in the 1960s and ran into the 1970s, Yalumba were brave enough to source their all-important Riesling from Eden instead of the warmer floor of Barossa Valley.

Due to the altitude, the final stages of ripening and harvesting take place in much cooler conditions. The higher vineyard sites (up to around 500m) are generally much better suited to white than red wine production (at around 400m). Wind is a major factor, too, in restricting both growth and yield on the exposed hillsides. Water availability is a limiting factor in the expansion of vineyards, but then this isn’t the only Australian region limited by a lack of water. Dams are the main source.

The varieties (source: Wine Australia)

Chardonnay is a relative newcomer with the first commercial vineyards in South Australia being established at Mountadam in 1973. The variety has proved to be highly successful and rich complex wines are being produced; their flavours ranging through a classic array of melon, fig and cashew.

In common with the Clare Valley, the Eden Valley also has its Riesling tradition. The most important white grape (and wine) of the region is Riesling, initially developing fragrant yet strong lime juice aromas with great intensity of flavour on the palate. As the wines age, marmalade and toasty nuances appear on nose and palate. Good Eden Valley Riesling will take ten years or more to reach its peak.

Site climate is of key importance. The Cabernet Sauvignon produced from vineyards around the Eden Valley village is of the highest quality, with perfectly ripened cassis-accented fruit flavours. These contrast to wine from higher, cooler sites that have more elegant undertones of green leaf and dark berry characters.

Shiraz ranks as the most important red grape and often the most highly regarded wine of the region. Contrary to expectations, the wines rarely show the spicy and peppery characters of cool climate Shiraz from other parts of southern Australia, notably Victoria. Rather, they tend to more luscious plum and blackberry fruit characters, sometimes with touches of liquorice and more gamey, forest characters. Structurally, the wines are very smooth, with ripe tannins that are integrated and well balanced, guaranteeing a long life.

Pictured: A very cool Tysohn Bitter of Langmeil, on set in Eden Valley.

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Cascabel is a winery that has intrigued me from day one for being that little bit different. Winemakers and owners Duncan Ferguson and Susana Fernandez use very traditional European wine making techniques in their Australian winery to create a fascinating blend of the Old World and New World.

Susana is originally from Madrid, where she did her studies before gaining experience working in wineries in Trentino and Sicily in Italy, Bordeaux in France and Yarra Valley in Australia. After meeting up with Duncan in Australia, she worked with him, making wine in France, Germany and New Zealand.

Duncan studied Oenology at Roseworthy (in South Australia) in the early 90’s and spent several years making wine in Clare Valley before heading off to the Rhône Valley in France, the Mosel region in Germany, and New Zealand.

With all that vast experience, they purchased 5 hectares in McLaren Vale in 1997, and started setting up the winery and vineyards. Cascabel had a definite Spanish influence from the start, with varieties like Tempranillo, Monastrell, Graciano, Grenache and Cariñena making up the majority of the plantings. Spending time in France also encouraged them to plant Roussanne, Viognier, Shiraz and Cinsault. There are plans to plant some Albariño grapes too (music to my ears).

Although not very common in Australia, McLaren Vale is producing top class vintages from the Tempranillo grape, which you’ll be very familiar with thanks to those reds of Rioja. A fairly typical McLaren Vale blend of Grenache, Monstrell and Shiraz is another one of Cascabels specialities, and they produce one of the best Riesling‘s to come out of Australia, with grapes sourced from Eden Valley.

This Australian/Spanish alliance has been turning the heads of the worlds most famous wine critics. Jay Miller has scored many of their wines 90 points and above, and James Halliday described them as one of the ten dark horses of Australian wineries, placing them in his prestigious 5 star category. All bias aside, this is one of my top dogs (or horses) as well.

For a taste of Old & New, click here.