The success of Dignité has firmly fixated the spotlight onto winemaker Eric Monnin. His robust Languedoc Syrah, and complex white partner of Viognier, have really impressed since joining the Curious range. This is a man meticulous about blends, tasting and re-tasting until he is completely satisfied with what the wine offers. Originally focussed on the Rhône, Eric’s extensive experience also covers the Loire and Burgundy.
As we run out the last of the ‘05 vintage, Eric explains why there is not going to be an ‘06 Syrah (although there will be an ‘07) and what other varieties he’s been working with recently, in a region that really is starting to be taken seriously.
1. Your ‘05 Dignité Syrah was astonishing. What do you believe is the main appeal of your flagship wine to the everyday wine drinker and to the judges of Concours National? Also, how is the ‘07 fairing and why no ‘06?
Dignité Syrah is probably not an everyday drinking wine, although there are customers happy to drink it every day. I would consider Dignité Syrah more as a weekend wine or a wine for a nice meal with friends. It’s at its best when you can take the time to decant it and let it aerate before drinking.
I made it as I like it, in others words, my inspiration probably comes from the Northern Rhône. I really like Côtes Rotie or Saint Joseph. For this reason I wanted to age this wine in barrels in order to extract more complexity and concentrate the original rich syrah, but you will notice that I have tried to keep the black fruit from the syrah by avoiding too much oak in order to produce a balanced and drinkable wine for everyone to enjoy, and not only to win a medal! Medals don’t drink wines, customers do!
Why no ‘06? When we picked the grapes of the ‘06 vintage, the 05 was still in barrels and we were still unsure about the potential of the wine and the final result. For this reason the grapes of ‘06 have been used for another blend. Since this date, I can confirm that I have the ‘07 in barrels and we are racking this week (mid February) and should be available by May this year. I also have the ‘08 and the ‘09.
2. We recently acquired your Simply range, which may be considered your entry-level to Dignité. How do they compare?
Simply Shiraz is just a simple wine, fruity, spicy and approachable for everyday drinking. I am a syrah lover, that’s probably why we have different wines like this one.
3. What do you make of the recent fiasco involving a Languedoc supplier and American wine producer Gallo? Do you think it will damage the reputation of the Languedoc in the United States and worldwide?
People started to realise the potential business for growing Pinot Noir. They became the most expensive grapes in the South of France after the famous movie (Sideways). Unfortunately some people had no “scruple” to sell Pinot Noir when it was not. I suspect the buyers of these wines closed their eyes because the volume and the money involved was too big.
At the end what happened was what all of us expected to see happen for more than 2 or 3 years. I don’t think it should affect the region, just those responsible!
4. What grape(s) do you believe thrive particularly well in the Languedoc, and are you tempted to start experimenting with any new varietals beyond the likes of Syrah, Viognier and Sauvignon?
Most of the producers have the classical grapes like Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cab Sauv and Syrah. I am keen on trying new things and working with others less common grapes.
Today in the Languedoc, I very interested in grapes like Grenache blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne. They have great potential. That’s also why I will launch a Marsanne Roussanne 2009 coming from a single estate in May 2010.
I also think that Gascony has great potential for Sauvignon and Colombard, so another region with a nice future.
5. Languedoc is certainly a region of France that Irish people are starting to pay much more attention to when it comes to wine. What do you see for the future of the region’s wine industry as a whole?
Languedoc is definitely a nice region with big potential, but unfortunately the price paid for grapes is quite often too low for the farmers, which explains why a lot people have pulled up their vines in the past four five years. As a result we may see a change in this region that has already started and it will become better for what I call small gems.
In view of the future, the “Vin de France” (Indication Géographique France) will take more importance on the shelves, which is not necessarily a great thing from my point of view. Indeed, while the New World is trying to organise its appellations, France, who created the AOC system, is now “driving back” creating a generic product like the New World producers when they started to produce. It is probably a good commercial decision for France in the long run, but I still struggle with this one. However, we will see how it goes in the next years.
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Special thanks to Eric Monnin.