Let’s not make a Shiraz of Syrah. They are the same grape, taking the name from the city of Shiraz in Iran, where wine flowed freely for many years before the Prophet Muhammad laid out his cards in the 6th century. Generally labelled Shiraz in Australia and Syrah in France, there is a huge worldwide following for this noble grape variety.

Expect deeply coloured wines with medium or high levels of tannins and acidity. Shiraz is a medium to full bodied wine (again, think of that water vs. milkshake consistency). The subtle spiciness in its aroma, often a combination of cinnamon, rose petals and orange rind, complement flavours of blackberry and black pepper.

Whereas French Syrah would tend to be more restrained, the Aussie Shiraz is generally big, bold and fruit driven. Some may not be for the faint hearted, although they can still be very accessible because of their soft tannins and relatively low acidity. The hot climate is key in this, allowing grapes to ripening thoroughly before harvest, helping to produce wines with intense black fruit, sweet spices and notes of black chocolate. Oak aging may add smoke, vanilla and coconut flavours.

The Northern Rhône in France is the classic region for Old World Syrah. The finest wines are grown on steep terraces that tower above the Rhône Valley. Grapes are harvested by hand and the sunlight and good drainage provide ideal conditions for the production of powerful, complex and age-worthy wines. In the flatter zone of Crozes-Hermitage, you’ll find less expensive wines that often display raspberry-like fruit flavours with hints of black pepper. The higher acidity of the French Syrah’s allow them to match very well with food.

New Zealand (aka ‘Godzone‘) is one of the New World countries that is producing Rhône-like Syrah’s, particularly those of Hawkes Bay in the North Island. Chile is also producing some fascinating Shiraz.

For a big, fruit-driven Shiraz, check out the Heartland Shiraz of Barossa Valley, South Australia, and for a particularly good food wine, the Charles Thomas Crozes Hermitage.

Crozes-Hermitage, a wine appellation in the beautiful northern Rhône wine region of France, is the largest appellation in the Rhone Valley. Its regulations are less demanding than that of Hermitage, of which some of you may know produces incredible wine with prices to match.

Most of the wines produced in Crozes-Hermitage are red and made from the Syrah grape, sometimes blended with small quantities of white Roussanne or Marsanne grapes (no more than 15%).  Jancis Robinson believes that this appellation can produce some of the best wine bargains to be found in the Rhône, so I was present when Michael (le boss) set out to find one of these so called bargains, not that I really believed at that time that the mere shadow of Hermitage could produce anything exceptional at an affordable price.

At first I was concerned. He swirled the glass, had a whiff and proceeded with some alarming moans, before taking his first slurp. “Well..?”, I asked inquisitively. And just as I started to mumble on about how you can’t knock New World, I started thinking to myself that this could actually be a ‘pick me up off the floor’ kind of wine.

This stuff obviously wasn’t pants. I could tell because he pulls that funny Oz Clarke face before raising his eyebrows so high they could almost fall off his head. I’ll let you see his tasting notes, which I have unashamedly robbed from his little red book of secrets (secrets – so he thinks), and you can decide for yourself:

Dom. Roland Betton 2005 Crozes-Hermitage

“Quite deep, clear, big tears, rich, ruby with a hint of violet. Clean & very pleasant – quite complex with nothing dominating – menthol, cigar box, earthy, coffee, hints of leather and spice. Tons of minerality. Open and medium in body, low acidity and incredibly mellow. Liquorice, blueberry, plum, with chocolate & coffee followed by a medium-long mellow finish. Absolutely wonderful, nearly fainted: 5/5″

Think he liked it? Yeah, I think so. And despite my slight New World bias, it must be said that Crozes-Hermitage is a great appellation to get you into authentic, rustic Old World wine without breaking the bank.

Therefore, I wholeheartedly approve.