Last month the first Chilean wineries, fourteen in total, received sustainable certifications from the Chilean Wine Industry, awarded for sustainable vineyard management processes and standards. It reminded me a little of the ‘Greening Waipara‘ project, only this Chilean sustainability code seems to be more of an official, nationwide movement.

So what does Chile’s new sustainability code address? It addresses the need for sustainable practices in three areas. Firstly, the area that the fourteen wineries were certified for, the vineyard (Green Chapter), and to follow later in the year, the winery (Red Chapter) and the community (Orange Chapter). The scheme provides a checklist of control points to be evaluated and a manual with recommendations for each control point.

In a nutshell, they are trying to ensure that the industry endures and that it stays in a healthy state of being. That includes looking after the land, which is everything when it comes to agriculture.

It might be cynical to suggest that Wines of Chile are just rolling out official protocols to give themselves more of a purpose in the industry. After all, with the approval average for the certification being over eighty percent you would wonder how strict the criteria really is. Even before sustainable, organic and fair trade practices, Chilean has always been somewhat of a viticultural paradise. The climate, topography and geographical location should allow sustainable practices to be implemented without a huge amount of extra effort from the growers while continuing to deliver on quality wines.

The red chapter and orange chapters will obviously apply more specifically to winemakers and marketing departments.

Here’s what the chief had to say:

“We are committed to becoming the number one producer of premium, sustainable and diverse wines from the New World by 2020. To achieve this goal it is imperative to create innovation that boosts our competitiveness. The development and implementation of Wines of Chile’s state-of-the-art Sustainability Code is a key pillar to achieve this objective.”

Rene Araneda, President of Wines of Chile

There is certainly a branding motivation here, but any effort to further improve the three aforementioned areas can only be a good thing. Even though the Chileans don’t need to prove their quality to me, likes ourselves, they wouldn’t be the type of people to rest on their laurels.

Remember, we’ve got 20% off Chile until the end of February. Ah go on…

Since I’ve been on the front line of this game I’ve always really enjoyed helping people to discover new wines outside of the norm, away from the standard Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet. Carménère is one of those varieties I like to start with because it’s not a million miles away from Merlot, so it’s not a big step for even infrequent wine drinkers. In fact, you may already know, for many years Carménère was mistaken for Merlot in Chile.

As reported in Harpers Wine & Spirit Reviews last week, a very prominent Master of Wine, Tim Atkin MW, claimed Carménère is now ready to move into the “Premiership” of grape varieties, even if not quite making it into the “Champions League” just yet.

Carménère will produce quite robust reds with high tannins. Atkin was pointing to the fact that the tannin and greenness of the variety is the most difficult thing for winemakers to manage. With such an improvement in Chilean winemaking as a whole over the last twenty years, the bar has been raised considerably.

South American wine expert and fellow MW, Peter Richards, agreed the advances in Carmenere now meant the wines were largely unrecognisable to the ones being produced only a few years ago. It was now possible, he argued, to start assessing Carmenere not on whether it was a green or not, but on where it was being made and by who.

Extract, Harpers Review article 17/01/12

Where it is made and who it is made by is an important issue when it comes to judging wine from a critical point of view. Those that have this sense of place, or “terroir”, or have the signature of the winemaker written all over them, are prized for having the x-factor. That little extra point of difference or unique character they have over other wines in their category. They must stand out from the barrage of average wine and winemakers are now achieving this with the Carménère grape.

Santa Alicia’s Reserva Carménère is my weapon of choice for many a curious wine drinker stumbling across our shop. It gets somewhat more serious with the chocolate blockbusting Gran Reserva Carménère.

It’s a very happy new year from Curious with 20% off Chile and Spain for January and February.

For January’s competition, we thought what better than matching our award-winning Chilean wines with some tasty local recipes.

If your cookbook collection doesn’t contain Chilean, now’s your chance to try something completely different:

The book contains 140 traditional recipes from home chefs and restaurants from across this South American country, spanning a variety of dishes that ranges from spicy salsas and hearty soups to the ubiquitous empanada and desserts such as sweet cream crepes. It includes fairly standard and simple recipes such as Chilean roast chicken and rice, as well as more complex and exotic ones like rhubarb mousse, blood sausage, stuffed meat (you literally have to sew the meat shut), and fried frogs’ legs.

Crikey. Rather fittingly, they’ve also a detailed section on Chile’s more familiar export:

In addition to recommendations for pairing wines with main courses, a special section on wine offers an overview of the wines of Chile, including the names and addresses of Chilean wine companies and the availability of their products.

So, we’ve one copy of the delectable Tasting Chile: A Celebration of Authentic Chilean Foods and Wines in hardback plus two of Santa Alicia’s finest – the Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay – to pair up with your first recipes.

To win, you must be subscribed to the Curious Wines newsletter. We’ll be including a not-so-difficult question and instructions on how to enter in our January newsletter going out soon.

Just missed it? Sign-up here and you’ll automatically get it sent to you.

As Spanish conquistadors and the word of Christ landed on Chilean soil, so followed missionaries and the root-stocks that accompanied them from the Old World. I can imagine customs having a field day over the bio-security risk, but then again this was 1548. A significant year as the priest Francisco de Carabantes planted Chile’s first vines in the small town of Concepción.

Despite the priests intention of producing wine for communion only, by the 17th century vineyards were springing up well outside monastic farmland. At one point the Spanish Crown ordered vines to be torn up because of the competition they might cause to Spanish wine sales, but this was abandoned in 1678.

For years wine could only play second fiddle to the native ‘Chicha’, a popular traditional alcoholic drink made from corn or apples. Mind you, the quality of the wine in those days wasn’t a patch on that of today, and it didn’t really become a commercial commodity until after Chile had become independent in 1818.

With the development of industrial mining, a wave of pioneering businessmen made their fortunes, some of which invested heavily in the wine industry. This wasn’t long after the aristocrat Silvestre Ochagavía Errázuriz imported the vines of international varieties from the Old World, and planted vineyards in the valleys near Santiago.

Varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc started performing very well under the supervision of French oenologists, employed by wealthy entrepreneurs looking to replicate the Bordeaux model.

Between 1938 and 1974 the Chilean government constrained production in an effort to combat alcoholism. With smaller volumes, quality only improved, and by 1979 the Catalan wine grower Miguel Torres became the first foreign investor to really bring Chile up to international standards at that time, in terms of both expertise and technology.

Others followed suit, and the Chileans themselves learned a lot from the Old World elite. The investments paid off and by the 1990s the volume produced had outgrown the home market, with the foreign market welcoming the overspill with open arms. The rest, as they say, is history.

For our May contest, we’re offering you a journey through the heart of Chile.

Well, not literally – we’re not that flush – but the closest thing to it from the comfort of your favourite armchair!

The itinerary proposed, between the Atacama and Patagonia region, between the Andes and the Pacific Ocean, takes us from the Elqui to the Bio-Bio Valley, from a cellar nestled in a colonial mansion to an ultramodern winery. Throughout the journey, the author invites you to stroll along, get to know the huasos, those country people, rest and relax on one of the many Plaza de Armas, take part in a rodeo, danse the cueca, to watch the sun set in Valparaíso Bay or perhaps spend the night in a casa patronal, a colonial house with adobe walls.

And so begins a photographic tour of Chile: Country of Wines and Mountains, narrated by Papianille Mura and captured in over 150 breathtaking photographs by Matt Wilson.

This beautiful book is up for grabs in our May contest, along with the now customary couple of bottles to help you properly enter the spirit of the content matter.

To win, you must be subscribed to the Curious Wines newsletter. We’ll be including a not-too-difficult question and instructions on how to enter in our May newsletter going out soon.

Just missed it? Sign-up here and you’ll automatically get it sent to you.

Good luck!

Images and quotations courtesy of the book publisher Versant-Sud: www.versant-sud.com.

For years Chile has been the ever-reliable when it comes to wines in the sub-€10 price bracket. Easy drinking, crowd-pleasing, inoffensive and admittedly at times boring. Now, however, Chilean producers are looking for a change in image from the bargain basement, supposedly “half price” volume movers to a producer of wines with distinction and authenticity.

For some consumers the thought of splashing out on anything over €10 is better spent on French, Italian or New Zealand wines. You’d be wrong if you thought Chile struggled to hold its own in this price range. With a collective concerted effort the times of cut-price deals might be coming to an end for many producers.

There is only so long a brand can be continually discounted before it becomes worthless, and there’s only so much wine can be produced before the drinking experience becomes pretty worthless too. New Zealand’s Oyster Bay is the perfect example, not helped by the container loads of surplus grape juice that need shifted any which way possible. Villa Maria is hanging on to their prestigious brand and excellent quality by the skin of their teeth, after having to discount prices to shift their own surplus juice.

It’s good news for Chile as far as the UK market is concerned. Nielsen figures indicate that after New Zealand it is the fastest growing wine producing nation in the UK, retaining a volume increase of 12%, and also, very importantly, a value increase of 14% (£451 million). With longevity in mind, this is something they intend to build on, using a valuable image to maintain a strong industry.

Reports from disgruntled Chilean producers suggest that they are no longer willing just to ‘break-even’ as the capitalistic nature of the 1st world countries continue to squeeze them for silly prices, with not a care for cost in terms of product quality. Using a similar business model to New Zealand – that is bringing wines to market that have real character and deliver excellent value at each price point – Chile can compete with anyone on their own merits by producing honest wines that showcase the best of their terroir and the skills of each winemaker. Think of it as a product life cycle. These guys don’t want to see themselves in decline any time soon.

The grapes we use for wine, bar a few exceptions, come from the Vitis Vinifera family. You could spend all day listing them, but the likes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Riesling are all from this species of grape.

Cultivated on every continent on Earth, except for Antarctica, its origins stretch from Europe to south-west Asia, but unlike Phylloxera, it’s managed to find its way to Chile, where it’s made a home for itself.

In the final of our Month of Chile blog series, we take a glance at Chile’s top grape varieties, consisting of four whites and five reds, with an approximation of area under vine for each.

Sauvignon Blanc (8,862 hectares planted)

Zesty is the key word for this varietal, with cool-climate areas such as Casablanca, San Antonio, Coastal Aconcagua, or Limarí making highly aromatic examples, recalling citrus fruits, green apple, crisp pear, and/or zingy pineapple with a refreshing green-grassy aroma and perhaps a stony, steely mineral edge.

Chardonnay (8,733 hectares planted)

This grape has proven its mettle in the cool climate areas, where it takes on a very attractive mineral edge. Smooth and well-rounded with moderate acidity and reminiscent of tropical fruits by nature, it takes kindly to a bit of oak ageing and even barrel fermenting for additional complexity.

Viognier (309 hectares planted)

This lush white from the French Rhone Valley is Syrah’s sister grape and one of the few white grapes that grows well in warmer climates. Its wines are rich and aromatic with pronounced notes of apricot and peach, often coupled with floral notes of orange blossom and honey.

Riesling (305 hectares planted)

As new cool-climate zones are opened, Chilean growers are taking a renewed interest in this German-born grape. Riesling here produces wines with a fuller body and slightly more alcohol than its European forbears, but it keeps a fresh, fruity, spicy character that makes it very appealing for a number of spicy dishes.

Carménère (7,284 hectares planted)

Chile’s own signature grape, this red varietal disappeared from European vineyards in the mid-19th century and reappeared among Chile’s Merlot vines a hundred years later. Rich in berry fruits and spice, with smooth, well-rounded tannins, making this a very pleasing and easy to drink varietal. Read more here.

Cabernet Sauvignon (40,766 hectares planted)

Although it grows in all but the coldest of Chilean climates, this late-ripening grape truly flourishes in vineyards in Aconcagua, Maipo, Cachapoal, and Colchagua, where the warm, dry climate allows it to ripen thoroughly and develop aromas and flavours of rich red fruit, blackcurrant and fig.

Merlot (13,283 hectares planted)

This major Bordeaux red grape landed in South America in the mid-19th century, but didn’t become a truly popular option from Chile until the early 1990s. “Chilean Merlot”, as is the popular term, has a unique spicy, green-peppery characteristic. Fruity with a soft texture, it’s very versatile with it comes to food.

Shiraz (3,513 hectares planted)

Depending on where it is grown, this richly pigmented red grape yields inky purplish-red wines that vary greatly in style. In warmer climates the wines are often big, lusty, juicy delights that take centre stage wherever they appear. In cooler climates they turn sublimely spicy and complex.

Pinot Noir (1,413 hectares planted)

A relatively new discovery in the Chilean line-up, the growing number of cool climate vineyards provide just the right conditions for this finicky darling to develop and delight the growing number of Pinot fans around the world. Watch out for the cool climate areas such as Casablanca, San Antonio and Bío Bío.

The final day of our Chilean sale is Wednesday 31st March provided stocks last. 20% off all marked prices (discounted at checkout)

Content provided with the assistance of winesofchile.org

As the most deadly pest in the history of viticulture tore through most of the wine-making world causing widespread destruction to grape vines in the late 1800′s, how is it that the long nation of Chile has remained relatively unaffected to this day?

Continuing our focus on Chile for the month of March, we look at what makes Chile the world’s most suitable natural environment for growing wine grapes, how it benefited from its natural barriers and a benevolent Mediterranean climate, and why such a large proportion of Chilean wine reaching us today is bio-dynamic without the producer having to lift a finger.

In most parts of the world, the organic production of wine can be quite labour intensive and there’s a lot of thought that goes into making a vineyard bio-dynamic, and the final product organic for that matter. For some areas, it’s simply not viable to omit the use of industrial pesticides, such is the nature of the environment. So what makes Chile so different?

Climate

Chile’s climate is highly influenced by the cooling effect of the Pacific Ocean and the Humboldt Current that begins in the icy waters near Antarctica and flows up the western coast of South America. When the effect of the Humboldt’s cold current hits Chile’s northern coastline it produces clouds and fog, but little or no precipitation, which then contributes to making the Atacama Desert the driest on Earth.

Geography

The cool sea air is partially blocked by the Coastal Mountains, although it finds its way inland by following the course of the transversal river valleys. During the day, sea breezes carried by the cold Humboldt Current penetrate inland, and each night, cold air descends from the snow covered peaks of the Andes.

Chile’s geographic barriers – the Atacama Desert to the north, the Andes Mountains to the east, the Patagonian ice fields to the south, and the Pacific Ocean to the west – make it a veritable agricultural island. Together they help maintain healthy conditions and protect vineyards against pests and disease.

Soil & Terroir

With so much geographic variety, the Chilean landscape also offers a vast mosaic of terroirs and soil types. Soils are healthy, well-drained, and have a variety of origins (alluvial, colluvial, fluvial, etc.) and textures (loam, clay, sand, silt). Despite the relatively dry atmospheric conditions, abundant water for irrigation flows from the ice caps of the Andes Mountains that tower all along Chile’s eastern border.

Altitude

In recent years, more and more vineyards creep closer and higher to the peaks, where the sun is slow to appear over the eastern peaks and makes up for its late arrival with the intensity that comes with altitude. Currents of wind climb and descend over the course of the day to create a daily pendulum of temperatures that swings broadly between daytime highs and night time lows. This is just what rich red grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, thrive on.

Not long, but wide

Curiously, it’s not the distance from the equator that plays the dominant role in the diversity of Chile’s grape growing exploits, but rather the proximity to the Pacific Ocean or the Andes Mountains. Chile has much greater diversity in soils and climates from east to west than from north to south.

Both Santa Alicia and Tabali farm very close to organic. Although not certified, Sierra Grande produces wine from organically grown grapes. 20% off all Chilean wines for the month of March (discounted at checkout).

Educational material courtesy of winesofchile.org

You didn’t just think it was the Old World who focused on the significance of region, did you? Those people who are in any way observant will notice that most wines will be labelled with specific regions or sub-regions.

Of the New World countries, it is probably Australia who is currently investing the most time and money into educating the consumer on the importance of regional identification. It’s important because wine from one region to the next can be vastly different, even if it is the same grape being used. You can catch up on Australia’s evolving story in our regional heroes series.

Chile is another New World country to realise the importance of regional identity. If anything, it has the most diverse terroir in the world. After all, we are talking about a country 2,700 miles from top to bottom, which, needless to say, allows it to have an incredibly varied climate, ranging from the world’s driest desert (the Atacama) in the north, to a Mediterranean climate in the centre, and a rainy temperate climate in the south. It is getting almost the whole mix of the southern hemisphere climate.

There are four key regions in Chile – Coquimbo, Aconcagua, Central Valley (Valle Central) and the most southerly region simply known as the Southern Regions or Southern Chile. Each has sub-regions and some have zones within those sub-regions. The bulk of Chilean wines are regional, hence wines labelled “Central Valley”, with no other distinction of origin, have grapes sourced from growers throughout several different parts of the region. They are brought together to be processed and bottled in one location, which may even be outside of Chile. A lot of the less expensive wines are made in facilities in Chile and then bottled in Europe or the USA to save on transport costs.

The most productive region is Central Valley, with the sub-regions of Maipo, Curicó, Maule and Rapel. Rapel Valley consists of two zones called Cachapoal and Colchagua. Just across the Andes is Argentina’s Mendoza wine region. Maipo and Rapel are well known for their Cabernet Sauvignon, with Curicó getting a name for its Chardonnay.

The sub-region of Casablanca, within Aconcagua, is a cooler climate area, producing some fantastic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but perhaps the most fascinating sub-region for me is Limarí Valley, part of Coquimbo, which is the most northerly wine region. Next door to the driest place on Earth, it produces some real blockbusters, the best of which still have the minerality, elegance and poise of the worlds finest wines. To find out more about the promised land of Limarí, click here.

If you’re tempted to indulge, look up Santa Alicia’s Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon and Tabalí’s Especial powerhouse red blend from Limarí Valley. There’s 20% off all Chilean wines for the month of March (prices discounted at checkout).

Thanks to winesofchile.org. Picture of the Guanacos courtesy of Santa Alicia.

Clandestine parcels aside, this month’s all about Chile, so our April contest needed a related theme. Our first thought was a big pot of Mum’s chilli con carne but transport and keeping it warm was always going to be an issue (ok, really bad play on words in any case!).

Thankfully, with the unusually long and chilly winter we’ve been having (ok, we really have to stop now with the cheesy puns), our good friends in Santa Alicia sent us over a couple of Chilean ponchos to keep us warm in the Curious Wines warehouse. You could prise Matt’s from his cold dead hands but, preferring to keep him alive and warm, we’ve put the other one up for this month’s contest, along with a couple of bottles of our favourite Chileans’ finest.

(It’s not Mum’s chilli, but it’s a good second best.)

How to Enter: All you have to do to enter the contest is join (or already be a member of) our monthly newsletter. We’ll draw a winner at random in April when our next newsletter goes out. You are of course completely welcome to un-join the minute after the draw is done, but we like giving discounts, special deals and free stuff to our members, so we hope you’ll stick around!

Congratulations to Aoife Porter, winner of our March contest! Prizes on the way to you Aoife.