What is it about Chardonnay that divides people so?

Last weekend I had the Santa Alicia Gran Reserva Chardonnay open for tasting in the shop. It was the first time I’d tried it since we tasted sample of this first vintage at the end of last year. I was essentially killing two birds with one stone. I would get to try it again myself and take any leftovers home come six o’clock, and in addition I would get customers trying and giving their own feedback.

There was no better time as our Chardonnay sale had just got underway the day before. I was more excited than anyone else because I just wanted to show all those Sauvignon Blanc drinkers what they were missing. I’m never quite as confident with cheap Chardonnay, but this retails at €12.99 before discount and its from Santa Alicia, a winery I probably have more faith in than any other we source from. I was rightly confident after my first taste that this one was going to go down well.

And it did, very well, with customers that tried it. But I was reminded that the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) Club is still a force to the reckoned with. With a couple of customers, as soon as the word passed my lips, before the wine was even in eye-shot, disbelieving looks would be cast: “You want me to drink ch… ch…ch… Chardonnay???”. You’d think I was presenting turps!

Is it just me or are some people programmed to hate Chardonnay? I suspect that this isn’t a question that is easy to answer. Everyone is different and has had varying experiences. Let’s keep in mind there was an awful lot of terrible Chardonnay on the market in the late nineties as the wine market in general took off.

There is certainly a contingent of ABCs who must have had horrific, life-changing experiences from drinking the stuff and would happily go to their graves never trying another. I also think there are those who simply enjoy familiarity and rarely step outside their comfort zone.

We had both sets of people in the shop last Saturday. It must be said, the greatest pleasure came from converting previously steadfast ABC members, as initial scepticism gave way to surprise and approving smiles. It was like opening a door to another world for a few customers. For the few that weren’t to be converted, they happily took away their regular Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio, and that’s satisfying in its own right because those people knew what they wanted and came back to us for it.

The task I have laid before me this month will involve getting more people to try good Chardonnay (of which, of course, we have plenty). If I can have a small part to play in the downfall of the ABC Club, I’ll be a happy man.

Some other good news on the Chardonnay front, The King’s Bastard Chardonnay (from winemaker Brent Marris, the man behind The Ned), has received the Consumer’s Choice Award at the “Chardonnay and Something Different” Tasting Results, which showcases the best Chardonnay-based offerings from New Zealand, a country which has really helped renew the image of this noble grape variety. More on that later.

After years of the Sauvignon Blanc onslaught, there are signs that Chardonnay is finally starting to make a recovery. With renewed interest in the Australian market, as well as improved market conditions in the USA, we might have to expect an under-supply in 2011 according to Murray Valley Winegrowers chief executive officer Mark McKenzie.

“At least one of the major wine companies has re-engaged growers on purchasing chardonnay and another is not limiting its contracted intakes of the variety.”

From weeklytimesnow.com.au

So much for the supposed ‘oversupply’. Mackenzie claims that “a sustained five-year blitz” from New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc brought the variety to its knees, although he predicts a Chardonnay revival, even if it’s only in Australia to start with.

Producers of the popular 1990′s Chardonnay shot themselves in the foot by being too eager to meet high demands. By inevitably having to cut corners, their commercialised Chardonnay was flat, characterless, sugar-laced and complete with essence of oak. Cheap volume plonk flooded the marketplace and all it took was a good dose of decent kiwi Sauvignon to turn demand on its head.

My favourite white grape variety is Chardonnay. The diversity in styles between producers, regions and countries fascinates me. I like the lean styles when the oak is well integrated. Perhaps something between the full-blown, buttery Chards and the simple unoaked versions. But I’m the first to admit that Chardonnay can also be the worst variety in the world when made badly.

It didn’t take me long to realise that the descriptions ‘good’ and ‘cheap’ can rarely be used in the same sentance to describe a Chardonnay, whereas there are plenty of inexpensive Sauvignons, Chenins and Pinot Grigios that can be passed off pretty well in comparison. It’s a variety that doesn’t do volume well, so it’s worth seeking something out from the mid-range price bracket.

My personal favourites from Australia – Langmeil GCV Chardonnay, and my special little treat, Dexter Chardonnay (pictured). From Italy, a fairly recent addition, the unoaked Poggiobello is well worth a stab.

Many wine experts believe the Burgundian AOC of Meursault produces the world’s best white wines. That’s a pretty big statement, which I suppose is impossible to prove or disprove. Although one thing is for sure, there are vineyards within Meursault, particularly along the border of Puligny, that are responsible for truly world class wines.

Meursault produces white wine from the Chardonnay grape. These ‘minerally’ wines often carry buttery or nutty flavours, with nuances of apples, almond and peaches.

The terroir here is very special, and can change drastically within a very short distance. Subtle changes in the soil and the make-up of the fossil limestone beneath are said to be contributing factors towards the changes in scents and flavours. Only those who know these wines well can define their exact, or almost exact, origin by taste and smell alone, but the further one moves into the commune of Puligny, the more succulent, yet refined they become.

The Grand Cru Montrachet would tend to be the cream of the crop, giving very concentrated, age worthy whites with what would seem to be all the best qualities of Burgundy rolled into one. They have great intensity which can define them from the surrounding areas.

Burgundy is the perfect example of why French winemakers believe terroir, or a sense of place, to be so important. The regional distinctions keep it so interesting, and the rest of the world has been taking note, as we’ve seen by Australia’s increased emphasis on region and sub-region.

For something a little special, check out Chartron et Trebuchet’s Puligny Montrachet, which was recently scored 92 points by Tomás Clancy of the Sunday Business Post.

For many winemakers the process of oak aging is as important as, say, choosing where to grow the grapes or when to harvest them. The complexity of flavours that can be derived from oak can help transform a wine into a different animal all together, and as well as adding a broader range of aromas and flavours, it will also have an affect on colour and tannin levels.

Oak is porous, so when a wine is ageing there are chemical changes that take place that wouldn’t happen in stainless steel tanks. The contact with the air helps tannins to soften and oak flavours to slowly leech into the wine. The influence oak will have on the wine depends on several factors:

Origin of oak: French oak is traditionally viewed as being the best to use, and typically carries a price tag to match. While they are Europe’s most important source of oak, the United States is the biggest commercial grower of oak in the Americas. French oak will result in quite subtle flavours in comparison to American oak, which is generally more powerful, adding sweet vanilla-like overtones.

Size of container: The larger the barrel, the less wine will be in contact with the surface area of the barrel itself.

Age of container: New oak will impart more flavour into the wine. For top wines an oak barrel may only be used once or twice before being used for mid-range productions.

Time in container: The more time spent in oak, the more flavours the wine will take on. It may need less time in new oak because it will impart stronger flavours quickly.

The judgement of the winemaker is paramount in all of the above. He or she must decide where to source their oak, the size of the barrels or barriques, how many times they will use them, and the amount of time required to strike the perfect balance and achieve the style of desired.

Obviously, the number of times the barrels are used, the larger they are and their origin, will have a considerable effect on production costs, but often the best wines are oak aged in quality oak and in small quantities. Cheaper wines can be made by stirring in oak chips in some countries, and really cheap, mass-produced wines can have essence of oak added.

You may find with some inexpensive wines that the oak isn’t that well integrated, and can taste unpleasant. This is particularly true of whites, the danger being of course that one might say they don’t like oaky wines. If you are one of these people, don’t give up, just pick your wines properly. Seek advice if required, or do a little reading around.

Oak used smartly doesn’t mean you have to pay silly money. A number of wines available under the €10 mark in your local supermarket will have oak flavours added, but our Santa Alicia Chardonnay is the perfect example of oak done well and honestly.

Ah, the infamous Chardonnay. The classy, sophisticated wine of the 90′s, made popular by those people who just didn’t know how to pronounce any other type of grape. “I’ll have a Chardonnay please.”

Well, as it turned out, this uber-trendy group of beautiful intellectuals turned on their beloved Chardonnay in the post-90′s era, when the new cool was ‘anything BUT Chardonnay’. Maybe in some cases with good reason. Commercialised, flat, characterless, sugar-laced and complete with essence of oak, cheap volume Chardonnay flooded the marketplace to tend for those thirsty ‘too cool for schoolers’.

But was it a thirst just to be accepted by their peers, or was it genuinely a thirst for good, honest, enjoyable wine? To be fair, as the new millennium came and went, it was probably just Chardonnay’s time to take a back seat and let Sauvignon Blanc take the lime-light for a while.

But I would like to make a stand. Chardonnay is back, baby! It’s awesome and it’s here to stay. One of the problems is, you might not even know you’ve been drinking a good Chardonnay. Ever tried a Pouilly-Fuissé or a Chablis? 100% Chardonnay, and generally cracking at that.

Chardonnay is not a particularly aromatic grape – it is less pungent on the nose than a Sauvignon Blanc, for example. It possesses delicate fruit and subtle ‘mineral’ nuances, and these are the main reasons for it’s suitability in expressing the oak and yeast-derived flavours. Flavours of toast, vanilla and coconut occur because of oak treatment, whether it be from ageing in oak barrels, from the use of oak chips or artificial oak flavouring (oak essence is generally only used in cheap Chardonnay). Malolactic fermentation, and stirring of the dead yeast cells once fermentation has ended, will give a smooth texture with yummy buttery and creamy flavours.

For those that are all about the fruit, fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks and they have no contact with oak. In cool climate regions, like Chablis, you can expect green fruit (apple and pear) with citrus and occasionally mild vegetal notes (like cucumber). In moderate climates, such as in Burgundy, the wines may taste of white stone fruit (peach) with citrus notes and hints of melon. Warm regions, such as parts of Australia, the wines will have expressions of tropical fruit, like banana and pineapple.

Wherever you’re getting your wine from, remember to ask a member of staff what they recommend based on your preference for your style of Chardonnay, because it is one of those wines that can be so different from bottle to bottle. I’ll suggest four from our range, two unoaked and two with a touch of oak, to get you asking for Chardonnay once again.

• Palazzi Chardonnay: Fresh, crisp and unoaked, the Palazzi is one of our most popular whites under €10.
• In Situ Chardonnay: Chile often produces staggering quality at low prices, and this lightly oaked white is the perfect example. There are few wines at this price where the oak is as well integrated as in this fruity number.
• Rockbare Chardonnay: This is the one that got me thinking deeply about Chardonnay again. A little oak, but in no way overpowering, the fruit is allowed to shine through. There’s lovely nutty, savoury tones on the mid-palate with a lemony finish. Famous wine critic, Robert Parker, rated this wine as ‘outstanding’, with 91 out of 100 points.
• Brocard Chablis: If you prefer a classy French with no oak, Brocard’s organic Chablis is for you. Delicate and fruity, with a touch of minerality – fairly typical of Chablis. Fermentation is carried out in stainless steel tanks. For more on Brocard, see this blog post from last month.

Following on from our pre-Christmas post (Lunar Organic the Next Craze?) and the addition of the glorious new wines to our list, it’s fitting to look at a newbie that practices bio-dynamic farming. Not quite hocus pocus potions, monthly moon cycles or religious sacrifices, but a method that utilises the principles of organic farming.

Jean-Marc Brocard’s Vielle Vignes was pouring white wine on Concorde for around 10 years. He’s a man that truly believes that the quality of his wine comes from the uniqueness of the vineyard’s soil and geographical position, but it is his son, Julian, who has been the real advocate for bio-dynamic farming.

Bio-dynamics is a systems approach where the farm is viewed as a living whole, in which each farm activity will have a knock on effect upon natural processes within the vineyard. Here are just three examples of bio-dynamic techniques:

• Introduction of predators to vary grazing patterns and reduce pasture borne parasites
• Recycling of organic wastes, where possible, by large scale composting
• Use of bio-dynamic sprays to stimulate biological activity in the soil

The Brocard vineyards are proudly herbicide and pesticide-free, thanks to this natural policy. Furthermore the winemaking is carried out in full respect of the Chablis traditions with the use of stainless steel tanks, and to add a modern twist, use of the latest and most modern computerised vinification techniques.

Chablis wines take their world famous mineral and fresh character from the vine’s roots, which dig deep into the subsoil, consisting of limestone, clay and marine fossils. Many believe that only in Chablis can the Chardonnay grape produce wines of such finesse.

So do these bio-dynamic methods really make Brocard a more special Chablis than those that continue to use herbicides and pesticides?

With very limited external inputs and the recycling of animal waste, I believe the most tangible benefit of bio-dynamic farming is the low impact on the environment. It also provides an economical way of farming in which most of the costs are met at the time they are incurred, thus offering a solution to conflicts between economics and the environment.

As for the wine itself, there’s no doubt that the Brocard Petit Chablis is classic Chablis Chardonnay – deliciously pure, delicate with good fruit, minerality and the perfect balance. Whether that’s a result of bio-dynamic farming techniques or the Burgundy ‘terrior’ on which it is grown, that’s up to the consumer to decide. I would tend to believe that the soil and the winemaking has the last say, although I’m very open to the idea that organic wine adds a little something extra, even if it is just in my head. What it certainly won’t do is cause us any harm, and if it helps the environment in the process, then I’m all for it.