Family-owned for six generations, Domaine Christophe Camu occupies 8 hectares around the village of Chablis, covering four appellations: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru.

80% of production is still sold at cellar door to private customers. Using only natural, wild yeasts and slow, cooled fermentation, the wines show wonderful purity of fruit underpinned with refreshing crispness and minerality.

Best buy: Christophe Camu Chablis 2011 (€15.99) Aromas of flint and citrus, and rich layers of flavour with sweet melon, Granny Smith apple, butterscotch and a long, flinty finish.

See the new range from Domaine Christophe Camu here.

Yes, it is made from the Chardonnay grape, so why do so many people put aside their Chardonnay prejudice when it comes to Chablis? What makes Chablis so acceptable to people who otherwise hate this fabulous noble grape variety?

Like all Burgundy whites, you could class most Chablis as elegant and easy drinking. For the top wines, you could simply recline into an armchair and spend the rest of the evening nursing a glass in your hand and a grin on your face.

In Ireland we probably concern ourselves too much with the grape variety, but in France and the rest of the Old World it is the regionality that dictates the style. That is particularly true of Chardonnay, which is a variety that takes on the characteristics of the region and the influence of the winemaker in so many ways.

In the winery of a Chablis producer it is what the winemaker doesn’t do, as much as what the winemaker does do. They are quite ‘hands off’ compared to some of the New World winemakers who might be slightly more heavy handed with the use of oak (or advocates of malolactic fermenation). In Chablis it’s less about the oak and more about the ‘terroir’, or in other words the characteristics bestowed on the wine from the specific geographical, geological and climatic conditions of the specific area.

The Chablis vineyards lie to the northwest of the main Burgundy region, only a stones throw from the southern end of Champagne. Its cold terroir of limestone clay suits the Chardonnay grape well. Just about, because this is pretty much as far north as you could go to for growing Chardonnay for still white wine.

The wines can be so minerally you could almost crack a tooth. With an almost green colour in their youth, the flavours are subtle. Green hay, citrus-lemon acidity, green apple, perhaps a touch vegetal, and sometimes with a lick of gun flint. The judicious use of oak by the winemaker, if any, allows for those subtle flavours of the grape and soil to fully express itself.

The most basic level of Chablis, Petit Chablis, is much like any regional white Burgundy. This covers wines from land just outside the main appellation, and those wines from within sourced from vines that aren’t old enough to go into Chablis AC.

Above Chablis AC we have Chablis Premier Cru, where the wines come from supposedly better sites, perhaps with superior micro-climates and sun facing slopes. In truth, Premier Cru can be hit or miss in terms of value for money, as some less expensive Chablis AC is every bit as good, and in some cases better.

This is less so the case with Chablis Grand Cru, which are the richest, heaviest and most complex of all. These are strictly regulated and are best after five years from vintage. They also see more oak ageing than Chablis AC.

We have 20% off Burgundy wines under €25 until the end of October.

If you read enough wine news it may seem like the Chinese own more of Bordeaux than the French do. Not quite, but there’s a lot of new money in China. The growing middle class has found a taste for good wine, and successful businessmen and women have seen the investment opportunity wine can offer. It’s certainly a safer bet than the property market.

The first major Chinese purchase has been made in Burgundy, with 28-year-old businessman Shi Yi buying up two vineyard plots in Vosne-Romanée and a few smaller plots elsewhere in Vosne-Romanée, Nuits Saint-Georges village and AOC Bourgogne.

Yi currently lives in Burgundy and has enjoyed a successful business partnership with a local grower. Over the past six months, they have shipped three containers of Burgundy wine to Shanghai.

Burgundy is arguably producing the world’s greatest wines, and the commune of Vosne-Romanée in the Côte-d’Or is just about as good as it gets in this famous French wine region. Only Pinot Noir can be used for Vosne-Romanée wines, and despite being quite a subtle grape variety, reds sourced from this land tend to be silky, rich and full, with amazing depth and complexity. The small volume that comes with each vintage, partly due to winemakers deliberately pulling low yields for extra richness in the wines, means prices are at a premium.

Shi Yi and his pals might also be interested to know that The Cadogan Hotel in London’s Knightsbridge has launched a Champagne bath menu, offering a Dom Pérignon 2002 bath for £25,000. Sure what’s an extra £25,000 before breakfast?

In other recent news, and I just had to include this while we’re on the subject of China, a certain Chilean wine has been causing controversy in Shi Yi’s homeland. The wine brand, called Chilensis, loosely translates as “f*cking nuts” according to a source in Hong Kong. More on that here.

For some serious indulgence, check out Chartron et Trebuchet’s powerful Vosne Romanée.

On the third Thursday of every November (Beaujolais Nouveau Day), Beaujolais Nouveau is released to an eager worldwide market. With almost 50 million litres produced, it makes up nearly half of the region’s total wine production. Drinking well as early as six weeks after harvest, which is about as fresh as you can get, the race to distribute to far-off lands follows an intense few weeks of heavy marketing.

My question though, is it really worth the inflated excitement and anticipation? We don’t import any Beaujolais Nouveau, but we have had people ask for it. Are they riding a wave of marketing genius, or are we missing a crucial beat by not stocking any?

Well, I’ve tried Beaujolais Nouveau a few times. The first time was in Auckland of all places, and although those examples didn’t exactly rock my boat, the style of wine makes for a very appealing and easy drinking light red. A hot summer afternoon in the garden kind of wine, like we get lots of those.

Gamay is the red grape variety used in Beaujolais, and after harvest that goes through a process of carbonic maceration, where the grapes are fermented whole without prior crushing. This allows for less extraction of tannins and lower acidity. The result is a simple, lightweight, fresh and fruity wine that ideally needs to be consumed within a year. Most people would chill it before drinking.

In reality, I reckon Beaujolais Nouveau is nothing to get terribly excited over. Good Beaujolais from the more traditional communes, such as Fleurie and Julienas, release their wines later and the best can age for years like any good red. They hold my interest a little longer as they have a better flavour profile, so I think they are money better spent.

In recent news, according to Decanter, over 40 Beaujolais communes have lost the right to label their wine as Burgundy. Beaujolais producers have had the right to label their wines Burgundy since 1937, but Burgundy winemakers have been looking for tighter restrictions surrounding the production of white wine. More on that here.

Pictured: One of the messages producers are using. In one way, fair play to them for taking the initiative.

Wine presentation and tasting with Anne-Claude Leflaive at The Grain Store, Ballymaloe, 3.30pm, Saturday 11th June 2011. €35 per person for afternoon tasting only (tasting dinner and accommodation also available).

The latest in the occasional series of wine events at The Grain Store is the visit of Anne-Claude Leflaive from the renowned Burgundy estate of that name.  The Irish distributor of this first class portfolio of white wines, and the man to thank for this rare opportunity, is Paddy Moore of Moore’s Wines in Dublin.  The Leflaives are coming up for three hundred years in Puligny, with family involvement in wine throughout, and since 1997 the estate has been run according to biodynamic principles.

Decanter Wine Magazine, in their Top 10 White Winemakers of the World, rated Anne-Claude Leflaive, Domaine Leflaive as the Number 1.

Ms Leflaive has not visited Ireland for eight years, so if you’d like the chance to sample some very great white wines indeed:

Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne blanc 2008
Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 2008
Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Clavoillon 2008
Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 2008
Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2008,

book your place now, as advance booking is strongly recommended.  If you’d like to try them in the context of some fine food – which is where they belong, no? – there’s a tasting dinner in the evening, and the option to stay the night too.  You could even make a week of it and stay on for gourmet music from Dennis Cahill and Martin Hayes (again with a dinner option) on the following Thursday…

For reservations, or any further information, call the friendly folk at Ballymaloe House on 021 465 2531 – or write to res@ballymaloe.ie.

Many wine experts believe the Burgundian AOC of Meursault produces the world’s best white wines. That’s a pretty big statement, which I suppose is impossible to prove or disprove. Although one thing is for sure, there are vineyards within Meursault, particularly along the border of Puligny, that are responsible for truly world class wines.

Meursault produces white wine from the Chardonnay grape. These ‘minerally’ wines often carry buttery or nutty flavours, with nuances of apples, almond and peaches.

The terroir here is very special, and can change drastically within a very short distance. Subtle changes in the soil and the make-up of the fossil limestone beneath are said to be contributing factors towards the changes in scents and flavours. Only those who know these wines well can define their exact, or almost exact, origin by taste and smell alone, but the further one moves into the commune of Puligny, the more succulent, yet refined they become.

The Grand Cru Montrachet would tend to be the cream of the crop, giving very concentrated, age worthy whites with what would seem to be all the best qualities of Burgundy rolled into one. They have great intensity which can define them from the surrounding areas.

Burgundy is the perfect example of why French winemakers believe terroir, or a sense of place, to be so important. The regional distinctions keep it so interesting, and the rest of the world has been taking note, as we’ve seen by Australia’s increased emphasis on region and sub-region.

For something a little special, check out Chartron et Trebuchet’s Puligny Montrachet, which was recently scored 92 points by Tomás Clancy of the Sunday Business Post.

Beaujolais is a good place to find reds that don’t have to be taken too seriously. These particular wines of Burgundy, from the Gamay grape, are naturally relatively light in both colour and acidity, making simple easy drinking, fresh fruited reds that are usually to be drank young and often at their best when served relatively cool.

Here’s a snapshot of some of the names you can expect to find from Beaujolais, courtesy of one of our most consistent ranges; Moillard, who are also responsible for our fabulous Lunar Organic wines from Chateau d’eau:

Saint-Amour: This is the one for you romantics. Labelled the ‘valentines wine‘, St Amour is a village next to Julienas, situated at the northerly limit of the Beaujolais area. In general, St Amour wines are colourful, well-structured, full and sensual. The dominating aromas are peach and apricot.

Fleurie: Probably the best known of the ten crus of the Beaujolais, Fleurie originates from granite soil. They are full, rounded and velvety. “Gouleyant” means they slip down easily. With their spring-like aromas, they combine the delightful fragrances of peach and blackberry.

Julienas: These reds are generally strong and have beautiful colour. They are vigorous and full-bodied with flavours of raspberries, cherries and red peaches.

Morgon: Nearly 40,000 bottles are produced every year. Since most of the vineyards here are at least 25 years old, the wines are rich, full-bodied and fruity.

Moulin a Vent: Usually dark deep in colour, full and well structured. The best vintages can be kept a long time and will be similar to a Burgundy wine. The dominating aromas are violet, iris and rose petals when older.

Regnie Domaine de Reyssiers: The 10th and latest Beaujolais Cru has a beautiful colour, very pure aromas with hints of redberries and sometimes the scent of English candles which is typical of Beaujolais wines. Many will age well due to the soft tannin content.

Moillard of Burgundy owns some of the most prestigious vineyards in Burgundy, including Clos de Thorey, Vosne Romanee Malconsorts and Clos de Vougeot. Very traditional in style, they manage to produce red burgundies that live for an exceptionally long time. Provided quality and price remain keen, this range is going to be part of the Curious selection for many years to come.