Opening a Clive Coates MW Bordeaux book at any page is like learning to read all over again, and those who are seriously proficient in Bordeaux may well bore you to death. If you have kept up with my previous two posts this month (click this link and scroll down), whether you’re looking for an entry point into Bordeaux, or you actually are the next Clive Coates, I really hope my attempt at making Bordeaux more interesting and user-friendly is working.

Pictured above, the boys at Chateau Bauduc getting their hands dirty. The wines made here come under ‘Appellation Contrôlée’ Premières Côtes de Bordeaux. They also make Bordeaux Supérieur red wines and Bordeaux Blancs. This might make more sense by the time you’ve read this post.

Last week we had a look at the left bank and the right bank and found out what they actually mean. Here’s the best of the rest (well, pretty much)

The Graves

Bordeaux’s great name was established in the Graves. From the 11th century onwards it exported to numerous markets gaining an unparalleled reputation, particularly with the English, and to this day they still produce wines that hold their own with the regions finest.

Graves means gravel in French, and there’s no shortage of gravel in this part of the world. We’re just south of the Médoc here, roughly following the left bank of the Garonne river, so like the Médoc, the Graves will also come under the “left bank” tag. The most notable appellation in the area is Pessac-Léognan.

The main variety is Cabernet Sauvignon, with a higher percentage of Merlot being used in their mineral scented, earthy red blends compared to that of their northern neighbours. Of all Bordeaux whites, the Graves is thought to have some of the best. Around a quarter of production is white, dominated by Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc.

The Côtes

It’s almost unfair to put the five Côtes areas under one heading. Situated on the right bank of the Garonne and Dordogne rivers lie Blaye, Bourg, Castillon, Francs and the Premières Côtes de Bordeaux - not all together of course. That would just make it too easy.

Côtes de Blaye and Côtes de Bourg lie on the right bank across the Gironde river from the Médoc. Côtes de Castillon and Côtes de Francs are located inland from Saint-Émilion, and all are producing plenty of good quality reds, and a little white.

Each area though, has very identifiable styles of wine due to soil composition and micro-climate, but that doesn’t stop them trying to market their wines together under the ‘Côtes de Bordeaux’ label. Watch out for the actual (or is it the afterthought?) regional name which will also be included on the label.

Entre-Deux-Mers (between the rivers)

This is the large, rather forgotten area of land that lies between the Dordogne and Garonne rivers. It’s an appellation in itself for the production of dry white wines, but there is quite a bit of decent red, rosé and white under ‘Bordeaux AC’, which implies regional Bordeaux. In other words if it’s not a specified white, they can’t use the Entre-Deux-Mers name on the label. This is in accordance with the specific laws of the appellation.

There are other appellations between the rivers, such as the aforementioned Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, which supposedly produces the best red wines in this relatively vast area. Good dry whites are made here too, but they will also come under ‘Bordeaux AC’.

Sweet white wines

Is this Bordeaux just showing off? I don’t think so. They actually do produce a lot of super-fine sweet wines. It possesses a number of areas, which are few and far between when you look worldwide, where the conditions are perfect for noble rot. The dominant grape is Sémillon, and it makes for some delicious dessert wine.

Sauternes and Barsac are the most well-known for these luscious wines, with the likes of Cérons producing lighter styled sweet whites.

20% off all Bordeaux wines for the month of April (prices discounted at checkout)

For some it will forever be the world’s most confusing, unfriendly and inaccessible wine producing region. For others, it’s a never-ending adventure of discovery, adventure and pleasure. If you missed part one, it’s not too late to get a quick introduction.

Right bank and left bank Bordeaux are terms you’re probably very familiar with, but then you go back to Australia for that eye-catching, easy to read and understand label. I couldn’t blame you. The New World markets itself very well, and traditionalist France is somewhat lagging behind in that department. But don’t let it scare you. Here’s your need-to-know on the difference between right and left.

Right Bank Bordeaux

The right bank appellations are situated on the right bank, or north, of the river Dorgogne. The dominant grapes varieties are Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The left bank has traditionally been more popular, but the right bank is now easily on a par and has found a huge fan-base in the USA.

Pomerol and Saint-Émilion are the most famous areas. The latter has four satellites, one being Lussac-St-Émilion, and Pomerol’s larger neighbour is Lalande-de-Pomerol. The wines from these regions tend to have great fruit concentration and softer tannins, so they’re a good place to start if you’re just getting into Bordeaux. The soil composition and climate is different to Médoc on the left bank, so this helps explain why the style can be very different.

Pay what you like here. There are plenty of good quality budget wines coming out of Saint-Émilion, but you could also pay the price of a new car for some wines. You’ll pay an arm and a leg for wines from 1990 vintage Pomerol.

Left Bank Bordeaux

You’ll hear Médoc and left bank in the same sentence. Now we’re on the other side of the river, where the terroir dictates Cabernet Sauvignon be used. With Merlot also being an important component, these wines tend to be concentrated, tannic and long-lived. Quite often they’ll need time before you can enjoy them at their best.

Wines labelled with ‘Médoc AC’ are sourced from vineyards in the northerly area of Médoc. ‘Haut-Médoc’ covers the southern region, but not some of the communal appellations - prepare for some name dropping - Margaux, St Julien, Saint-Estèphe and Pauillac. This is where the best soils are found.

If you decide to buy some young Médoc for ageing, buy right. Enjoy the thirty, ten or even just a couple of years that you have them down for and look forward to how they will have evolved. Each communal will give you an idea of what to expect, so don’t be afraid to ask for some advice, or look further into it yourself. It’s a whole world just begging to be explored, whether you’re a left banker, a right banker, or both.

20% off all Bordeaux wines for the month of April (prices discounted at checkout)

It’s to Bordeaux we turn our attention this month as we attempt to remove the la-de-da and introduce a bit of ooh-la-la to the world’s most renowned wine region.

‘There is no better introduction to the world’s most dazzling wine region’, declared Decanter magazine on Oz Clarke’s Bordeaux.

We don’t think there’s a more accessible wine writer in the world, so we thought what better place to start for our May contest. We’ve a copy of this deliciously descriptive and beautifully presented book to give away, along with two bottles of Oz-recommended Chateau Bauduc.

How to Enter: We’re changing the entry criteria slightly this month, but it’s still a cinch to enter - all you have to do is become a fan (or be one already) on our Facebook page. We’ll draw a winner at random in May and post it here and on Facebook.

Congratulations to Tony Owens, winner of our April contest, Poncho y Vino! Prizes on the way to you Tony.

It’s hardly the most consumer friendly, but if there’s one wine region in the world that you absolutely cannot go through life without giving a fair crack of the whip to, it’s Bordeaux. Think of it as a world of wine in itself, but don’t be daunted by the labels. Get your head around the basics, and you’ll be armed with the essential information. Who knows, it might even prove useful if you decide to take the more practical approach this month with 20% off all Bordeaux wines for the month of April.

Appellations

The appellation contrôlée laws govern production of wine from a specific region. The general regional Bordeaux wines simply come under “Bordeaux AC”. More than half of all red and white production come under this label. Wines of ‘Bordeaux Supérieur AC’ are from lower yields, so should see an improvement in quality.

Specific regional appellations, for which there are more than 50, are a step up again. The most renowned villages or communes will have their own appellations. Margaux and Pauillac are examples.

Geography

The rivers of Dordogne and Garonne flow through Bordeaux. The region is split into ‘left bank’ and ‘right bank’, with the familiar appellations of Medoc and Graves on the west side and St-Emilion and Pomerol on the east side. Entre-deux-mers is a large appellation dominating the centre of the region, between the two rivers.

Grapes

The vast majority of Bordeaux wine is red. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot rule in Bordeaux. These are often accompanied by Cabernet Franc, with Malbec and Petit Verdot also grown. Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc dominate the whites.

Climate

Warms summers and long mild autumns are the key, but too much rainfall can cause havoc. In good years and in the right micro-climate, the perfect ripeness and thus the perfect wines can be achieved.

The essential sub-regions

The Bordeaux wine region is divided into subregions including Saint-Émilion, Pomerol, Médoc, and Graves. The 57 Bordeaux appellations and the wine styles they represent are usually categorised into six main families, four red based on the subregions and two white based on sweetness.

Red Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur: These are the “basic” red Bordeaux wines which are allowed to be produced all over the region, and represent the least expensive Bordeaux wines. These wines tend to be fruity, with less influence from oak and are for drinking young.

Red Côtes de Bordeaux: These blends are usually dominated by Merlot. They tend to be intermediate between basic red Bordeaux and the more famous appellations of the left and right bank in both style and quality.

“Right Bank” wines: Again, mainly dominated by Merlot. The two most famous are Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. These wines often have great fruit concentration, softer tannins and are long-lived.

Red Graves and Médoc or “Left Bank” wines: Blends made up primarily of Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Merlot. These wines are concentrated, tannic, long-lived and most of them meant to be cellared before drinking.

White wines: Dry white wines are made throughout the region, and in several locations and appellations, sweet white wine is made from Sémillon, Savignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes affected by noble rot. The best-known of these appellations is Sauternes.

20% off all Bordeaux wines for the month of April (prices discounted at checkout)

April’s here, and we’ve another month of stupendously good deals from around the wine world.

It’s to the world’s greatest wine region we turn first, with a salivating 20% off Bordeaux. Forget the stuffy reputations and Chateaux La-de-da, we’ve some of the best that modern Bordeaux has to offer, from Gordon Ramsay’s house wine to classically styled Grand Crus. (Do not miss Chateau Bauduc if you want to see what this great region has to offer the modern consumer!)

Our Case of the Month is a Taste of Bordeaux, a delectable mix of classic Clarets, sumptuous whites and delicious desserts, all with a tasty €35 off the regular combined price.

From Old to New, Marlborough has been the global benchmark of Sauvignon Blanc for the last decade. We’ve a range of great buy 2 offers plus further incredible deals by the case, including established favourite The Ned from €10.33 per bottle and our stunning new find Fairhall Cliffs from only €8.33.

Finally, we like to keep the supermarkets on their toes, so the Roo is back for April. Grab a Yellow Tail for only €6.99 when you buy two or more, with the blockbuster Reserve range only €9.99. That’s case of 12 delivered from under €84!

Offers will run until 30th April or, as ever, while stocks last.

In our most comprehensive and fascinating interview yet, we talk to the man behind Gordon Ramsay’s house wine.

As it turns out, he’s a bit of a celebrity himself after being featured on BBC 2’s Big Wine Adventure alongside James May and Oz Clarke. Gavin Quinney, head winemaker at Chateau Bauduc, tells us all.

1. We understand that you were hit by some freak weather last May. What’s the outlook for your ‘09 release?

It’s no secret that 2009 was a fabulous vintage in Bordeaux, as the weather was extraordinary. My take on the vintage straight after the harvest was here on liv-ex. Unfortunately, we were badly hit by not one, but two hailstorms in May. It was pretty depressing.

The Clos des Quinze, which you guys have been kindly selling for us, took a pasting, so there isn’t a CDQ ‘09. To make matters trickier, even ‘petit chateaux’ cannot just slip out and buy grapes and blend them with your ‘Chateau’ wine, as you would if you were a winery or an estate brand in, say, New Zealand. So we went off and leased another lovely vineyard from a diligent grower called Pascal. Of course, we weren’t to know in advance that it would be a good vintage, so it was a double or quits bet.

The result is a mixed bag. The white and rosé are very good, (although I mention the hailstorms on the back-label of the white in case regulars notice a change) but for me the jury’s out on our red. I’ll have to wait and see how it evolves, but if the red isn’t up to speed, I’ll sell it off to a negociant to put it into their Bordeaux brand. This won’t be good for the finances but I don’t want customers to have a high expectation of our 2009 red and be disappointed.

I’d also suggest that people be slightly wary of what they buy from hail-damaged areas - some 19000 hectares were affected. Everyone I know around here made up the shortfall from other vineyards which weren’t hit.

2. Was it a surprise to have Oz Clarke and James May pop in to Chateau Bauduc during the filming of BBC 2’s Big Wine Adventure?

Not really, because it was planned long in advance with the BBC. I’d first met Oz in the early nineties when I entered a blind tasting competition in England, and we’d always got on well. When we pitched up with our wines at the Wine Show in London, a consumer event, he came to our stand quite a bit and said he’d make sure we were included in his BBC travels.

He later stayed with us at Bauduc with his publisher, and I have never drunk so much wine in my life as we merrily opened bottles from my cellar. He has an amazing palate, even when trolleyed. James May is a very bright spark, and knows more than he’s allowed to let on. It was a fun day.

3. Is there a particular grape variety that you believe really excels in Bordeaux, perhaps like nowhere else in the world?

I travelled quite a bit before settling here, so I’ve enjoyed Cabernet in Coonawaara, Malbec in Mendoza, and so on. I would really like to experience Napa but I never got around to it.

My ten years at Chateau Bauduc have shown me that it’s all about what works in your own particular vineyard. I love Cabernet Sauvignon, but the Cabernet here didn’t ripen properly, so I ripped most of it out and replaced it with Sauvignon Blanc on the cooler slopes. That said, I think Cabernet Sauvignon is king in the special areas of Pauillac and St-Julien, on the Left Bank overlooking the Gironde. I’m obviously not the only one to think that, judging by the spiraling prices. There are some great wines though, steeped in Cabernet, that won’t break the bank but you need to be patient. Cabernet doesn’t come in at quite the same level of alcohol as Merlot - a degree or so less - so in 2009 I reckon the Left Bank wines might have a tad more elegance and better balance.

Cabernet Franc is wonderful on the Right Bank, as a constituent in Pomerol and the better bits of St-Emilion. You don’t have to take out a mortgage on wines like Cheval Blanc and Ausone, where it’s 50%+ of the blend. Try La Tour Figeac next door to Cheval Blanc for a fraction of the price, or Canon La Gaffeliere, below Ausone. Loire Cab Franc is great - Saumur Champigny and so on - but it’s quite different.

Having said all that, Merlot can be awesome - especially on the plateau of Pomerol. Forget the school fees, send them to the local establishment and tuck into some cases of L’Evangile, for example, post 2004. Of course, there’s a lot of shite Merlot on high yielding rootstocks planted in fields that are better for nurturing other crops. Growers of this tedious stuff will have to pack up at some point, as there’s no market for weedy gnats piss.

At the cheaper end, there are some excellent dry whites. Although the great white wines of Bordeaux like Haut Brion are, er, great, head happily over to the better growers of the Entre Deux Mers for lovely, reasonably priced dry whites. Some, like us, stick with Bordeaux as the appellation. I can’t claim that Sauvignon Blanc is better here than Marlborough, Sancerre, etc but there are pockets of Bordeaux where it works brilliantly most years.

Sémillon is underrated, (good Sauternes in years like 2001 and 2007 - what value) but I don’t go for dry Muscadelle - too, well, grapey.

4. What restricted grape variety would you most like to grow in Bordeaux if regulations allowed?

I’m trying out a few illegal vines in my ‘garden’ - all the usual suspects. I’ll have to let you know how we get on. Unlike Burgundy, we can plant several varieties, and with different clones and a choice of rootstocks. There are quite a few decisions to be made already. I’d like to try Syrah and Pinot Noir and a few whites. I doubt Riesling would work, but I’ll see how my plants get on.

5. Can you tell our readers a little more about your connection with celebrity chef’s Gordon Ramsay and Rick Stein?

When we started making wine in 1999, I thought it would be good to have it on the list in top restaurants. Some wine merchants said ‘there’s no market for Bordeaux whites, thanks’ (aka piss off) and they were right. Not many people ask for it in the way that you’d ask for Pinot Grigio, New Zealand Sauvignon, Gruner Veltliner or whatever today. But I don’t think people care as long as there are some sound recommendations for the wine, and celebrated chefs seemed an obvious choice.

I was invited to lunch by a friend to Ramsay’s eponymous restaurant in Chelsea, as a thank you. I met Ronan Sayburn the sommelier and we got on well. I think Ronan was quite surprised by our first white that we’d made - he really liked it. What swung the deal was some keen pricing to match their existing house wine, but more importantly, I made up some dummy labels with Gordon’s signature on. These went down a storm, they selected us and soon after he won his 3rd Michelin Star.

It’s no mean feat that he’s kept the three stars for nearly a decade, although the press these days prefer to focus on any bad news surrounding Gordon. I have always found him and his father-in-law Chris Hutcheson, who is CEO, to be charming - and they’re very supportive of us. The sommeliers make their own choices, so I go and do a tasting fairly regularly, or they come to us. They list our whites, reds and our new, pale Provencal-like rosé.

I’ve known Rick Stein and his business partner, his ex-wife Jill, for many years now. Similarly to the Ramsay story, I went over to Cornwall some ten years ago and saw Roni, Jill’s sister, who is the head sommelier and a really nice person. Rick then visited us out here, as did Roni a bit later. Rick then made Bauduc one of his Special Selections on the front page of his list (I imagine his ‘food heroes’ must have had that same feeling when picked).

I guess we see them all about once a year - the new look Seafood Restaurant is a special place. My wife Angela and I are fond of Rick, Jill, and Roni, and Rupert the General Manager, and I think what they have achieved is fantastic. They have something like 40 rooms in Padstow now, as well as all the restaurants - go and stay, mention the Bauduc/Quinney connection and have a glass on me.

Special thanks to Gavin Quinney, Chateau Bauduc.

Our range from Chateau Bauduc.

From a single vineyard where mostly Merlot (70% in this blend), Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon is grown on clay and gravel slopes near the river Garonne. This classic Bordeaux blend was aged in French oak barrels for 12 months. The 2004 vintage received 91 points from Galway based wine critic Frank O’Brien.

To view product page and for more details, click on Chateau Bauduc Clos des Quinze.

In 1985, a new concept in Bordeaux wine-making was created to answer the question ‘How good can regional Bordeaux be if it is made with the same care and investment usually reserved for the top Châteaux?’.

Named after the brightest star in the universe, Sirius was an attempt to show that, through strict selection of grapes and the latest vinification techniques and ageing methods, it was possible to make a regional Bordeaux that punched way above its class. The flagship brand of Maison Sichel shows that regional Bordeaux really can excel.

A classic Merlot/Cabernet blend from obsessive wine-maker Ben Sichel, Sirius is a rich, soft wine exuding classic cedar box, cassis and ripe plums, and a regular medal winner in international competitions.

In 2002 the Sichel family acquired the 45 hectare Château d’Argadens, putting in place a vast renovation programme with the aim of making wines that would be a benchmark within the Bordeaux Supérieur category.

After 12 months in oak barrels, the Decanter 5-star D’Argadens Supérieur is a modern claret with lots of concentrated fruit and an attractive supple balance. Mike recommended the Supérieur red for a wild mushroom pasta dish a few weeks ago, for its great structure and complementary woody, earthy character.

The D’Argadens white, a Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend, is a superb alternative to Burgundy or the Loire for a top quality white, and a medal at last year’s Challenge International du Vin further validated the progress under Sichel.

There’s 10% off each of these great regional Bordeaux wines as part of our Summer Sale on all French wines, so no better time to get to know Maison Sichel.

Cabernet Franc is a wonderful grape. It’s been hiding in the shadow of Cabernet Sauvignon for too long now, and I for one will be starting to take it more seriously, especially as I’ll be sampling my way through Loire Valley’s finest next month.

It is more precocious than Cabernet Sauvignon, which would be a close cousin to Frank… sorry, I mean Franc. It buds and ripens at least a week before, making it particularly useful in Bordeaux’s cooler vintages when the more famous Cabernet may not reach full ripeness at all.

It’s a lighter, less tannic version of its relative, with aromas that are often more herbaceous, or even floral. In Bordeaux, it is usually part of the blend of red grapes although, unusually, it makes up two-thirds of the blend of Chateau Cheval Blanc, a famous first growth property in St-Emilion.

Cabernet Franc was as widely planted as Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux in the 1960s. True, this isn’t the case anymore as it’s been displaced by Merlot, but it maintains strongholds, such as on the right bank in Saint-Emilion and Pomerol. Cabernet Sauvignon is seen as too much of a risk here as it may not fully ripen.

In Loire Valley, when the grapes ripen fully, Cabernet Franc produces a beautiful silky texture with soft tannins and a characteristic aroma not unlike pencil shavings. With their relatively high acidity, they are not the most fashionable wines in Ireland, but they respond well to being lightly chilled and so are particularly useful for red wine lovers in the heat of the summer.

The fact that Cab Franc is not as pronounced as Cab Sauv in many quarters, including in body and in tannins, may be the reason it’s not as mainstream as its counterpart as a single varietal. If you get your hands on one and are not mad about it on its own initially, try it with food. It’s well worth a shot.

Julian at BubbleBrothers raves about Loire reds, so I’m looking forward to trying more. Hey, you know me, any excuse.

May was a bad month for many Bordeaux winemakers. Two freak hailstorms, consisting of tennis ball sized chunks of ice, tore through vines ripping branches and destroying huge quantities of grape stocks.

Fifteen thousand hectares were affected, in an area 30km long and 10km wide, starting at the Graves region, south Bordeaux, across the Garonne River to the Entre Deux Mers, and over Dordogne into Saint Emilion.

One of the unfortunate vineyards affected was Chateau Bauduc, owned by English couple Gavin and Angela Quinney. Bauduc is a 75 acre vineyard making upmarket house wines for leading British chefs Gordon Ramsay and Rick Stein.

In the attached video, Gavin takes us on a tour to view the damage severe hail like this can cause. Sadly, over 80% of the crop for 2009 was destroyed, including the fruit from the Les Trois Hectares plot, with Semillon vines dating back to 1947.

Our sympathy goes out to Gavin and Stacy, who’s wines have continually flattered our customers, as well as ourselves and the world’s top wine critics. Hopefully, their fortunes can improve next year and they can start producing more fabulous wine.

To see our Chateau Bauduc range, click here, and for further reading on the winery, including rave reviews from Oz Clarke and Blake Creedon, click here.