The perfect post for Paddy’s Day is about another fine Irish wine. In January, Michael covered a story on the Amurensis Walk 2006 from the Thomas Walk Vineyard in Kinsale, Co. Cork. It was indeed a valiant attempt, but that said, it would not have stood up to those from established wine regions. This time we’re going to feature an Irish world beater. And we’re going to cheat… just a little.

Culraithin (pronounced cool-ray-thin), a derivative of the Gaelic word for Coleraine, features a Shiraz and a Cabernet Sauvignon from the 2002 vintage of Paarl in South Africa. This 42-hectare farm abutting the Paarl Mountain Nature Reserve is situated on the south-western slopes with 270º spectacular mountain views.

The fine wines of Coleraine are produced to honour the Kerr family’s rich farming heritage, which dates back to 9th century Ireland. Abraham Kerr, one of the Kerr’s more recent ancestors, farmed successfully in Coleraine during the 1800s. This led to the naming of the cellar after their ancestral birthplace in Northern Ireland, which would commemorate an extensive Irish family history.

Originally the first vineyards were planted in the 1920s with the emphasis on wine grapes, which have always produced quality grapes. The deep well drained Clovelly Hutton and Oakleaf granite-clay soils and cool evening breezes contribute to fruit of high quality and intense colour. All the grapes used to produce these red wines are grown, hand picked and vinified on the farm. Clive Kerr (pictured) started his career on the farm 26 years ago and has realised his dream of producing astonishing wines to have everybody talking.

Their foray into the US market has garnered rave reviews from The Wine Advocate, granting 89+ points to the Cabernet and 90 points to the Shiraz.

Culraithin Cabernet Sauvignon 2002: “Its demure aromatic profile reveals brooding black fruits. On the palate, this behemoth is an infant. Huge quantities of blackcurrants, roasted blackberries, and spices can be
discerned in its concentrated, tight, as well as firm personality.” Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, 89+ points.

Culraithin Shiraz 2002: “The black-colored 2002 Syrah explodes from the glass with candied black raspberry aromas. A spicy, mouth-coating wine armed with sumptuous density of fruit, it displays loads of blackberries and black raspberries whose flavors linger in its ripe tannin-laden, lengthy finish. Drink this beauty over the next 5-6 years.” Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, 90+ points.

Just before Christmas we had the great pleasure of a visit from Michael O’Callaghan of Vin de Longueville – Mallow-based wine-maker no less – with the 100% Irish red wine, Amurensis Walk 2006, from grapes grown in Kinsale, Co. Cork!

The seven-acre Thomas Walk Vineyard has been experimenting with the Vitis Amurensis grape – a cool climate grape variety, bred by the legendary German viticulturist Helmut Becker from a grape originally found growing in the shadows of the Himalayas, on the bank of the Amur River.

For those that can remember beyond the miserable last two summers, 2006 wasn’t a bad one, and by September of that year the grapes were actually displaying decent ripeness with good sugar levels. So, Mr O’Callaghan collected the grapes, and began in earnest to produce (that we’re both aware of) Cork’s first red wine.

The wine was fermented in oak, with the skins being removed upon fermentation, then aged for six months in barrel. The result is a light bodied, young wine – ruby purple in colour, and very slightly murky due to minimal filtering.

So, the million dollar question: how did it taste?

We sampled the wine quite cool as Michael suggested – almost chilled as you might do with Beaujolais – but that didn’t restrain the quite pungent aromas – sweet medicinal, flowery scents that you might associate with a tonic wine.

It was actually quite smooth – dry with light tannins – but, I’m afraid, not the most drinkable. Powerful medicinal and vegetal flavours, with a punishing lack of acidity and fruit to carry it.

Nevertheless, that’s from a critical, commercial point-of-view – the wine just wouldn’t stand up to the quality you can get from established wine regions in the €10-12 mark, or realistically much lower than that. But I have to give massive credit for Vin de Longueville for having a go, and there’s a huge novelty factor if nothing else.

Unfortunately there’ll be no 07 or 08 vintage of Amurensis Walk to compare progress, due to the aforementioned non-existant summers, but I do look forward to future attempts to tame the Rebel Red.

Fancy a taste yourself? We’ve taken a case from Michael to give away to Curious sippers, so if you’re passing the warehouse, or want a bottle thrown in a case for delivery, just pop in or make a note on your order. Completely gratis, and obviously while stocks last – but do let us know what you think!