“Of all the wineries scattered across the Waimea Plains, this small producer at Hope, south of Nelson city, has the quality edge.”
Michael Cooper,
Pocket Guide to Wines of New Zealand
Andrew Greenhough is one of the success stories of the New Zealand wine industry. Every vintage his Greenhough range astounds us, not only in that all-important matter of price vs quality, but in the variety and unique styles that he brings to our range of New Zealand wines.
We’ve asked Andrew 10 questions, 5 of which are below and 5 of which will be posted next week. It’s well timed as there is currently 20% off all of our New Zealand wines, including Greenhough, until the end of August. In addition, until the end of July, we have buy 6 get one free on the Greenhough Sauvignon Blanc - a genuinely fantastic offer you’re not likely to see again for a long time… if ever.
1. You could have chosen any region in New Zealand to make wine. Why did you choose Nelson?
To a certain extent Nelson chose us. We knew of Nelson as a beautiful region close to the sea, national parks, ideal climate and culturally very interesting. All of these things were important to us. Certainly there was no desire to move to many of the other wine growing regions which did not offer such a complete package. The wine industry back in 1990 was relatively un-evolved by today’s standards – Central Otago for example was in its infancy as were a number of the smaller wine regions and so there was not the same very strong association with wine that many now have. That said, if we had our choice again today, we wouldn’t go anywhere different! There was an opportunity to buy land and a small operating winery in Nelson within a region already producing excellent wines and this became an appropriate way into the industry for us.
2. Make the case for Nelson Sauvignon Blanc – what gives it an edge over other New Zealand styles and how have you evolved your style as you’ve got to grips with the land. Are there ‘no go’ areas with Sauvignon Blanc you feel strongly about. How do you feel it is evolving?
Nelson Sauvignon Blanc has a definite ‘top of the south’ character with vibrant, lively fruit flavours ranging from the more herbaceous through to ripe citrus and tropical. Generally Nelson Sauvignon expresses a degree of restraint and subtlety, (that is a little less pungent than some), good palate weight and mineral freshness. For me this makes Nelson Sauvignon a more food friendly style than many. Some winemakers prefer to emphasise more pungent, herbaceous characters and others a riper, more tropical style. Both work well, though for me the most successful styles are in the riper spectrum with herbaceousness in the background. There has been an evolution towards riper styles of New Zealand Sauvignon across regions. Also some more complex styles employing wild fermentation, barrel ferment and lees aging. These are interesting and delicious when the balance of these elements is well handled and fruit flavours are in the riper spectrum. For me the inclusion of a very small percentage of new oak fermentation (less than 5%) adds more dimension to the mid palate of the wine. The oak should not be at all apparent however and the style should retain a fresh, uncomplicated fruit focus. Moderate yields are essential to achieve good natural sugar/acid balance in the fruit along with generally riper flavours and phenolics. This balance means that we are able to successfully make a genuinely dry style of Sauvignon.
3. We hear Nelson hosted the International Aromatics Symposium in February with Ernst Loosen (of German fame) present to cast an eye over progress and to lead panel discussion. How did the event go?
As a region, Nelson has a climate which allows it to produce a relatively wide range of varieties extremely well – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and the aromatics. While Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir have become popularly associated with Marlborough and Central Otago respectively, the aromatics were ‘up for grabs’. Without doubt, Nelson is able to consistently produce some of the country’s best Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris and in February 2010 hosted the second triennial Nelson Aromatics Symposium. It’s an event which allows us to attract an important and influential audience, to raise the regional profile and show off the quality of our wines in general. This year the focus was on Riesling and Gewurztraminer. The 160 delegates included international wine writers, wine trade, winemakers and enthusiasts who spent a day tasting and discussing their way through a range of regional and international wines. It was a great opportunity to pitch a selection of New Zealand wines alongside some iconic French, German and Austrian examples. The event was a great success. Come visit us for the next one in 2013!
4. Your range is expanding each year – more recently Pinot Blanc and sweeter, low alcohol Rieslings added. On top of your traditional range of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir what are you most excited about in your grape varieties or evolving styles going forward. Do you have a favourite child in the pack?
I don’t really have a regular favourite. It varies from vintage to vintage. The Pinot Blanc is a wine which we began making in 2003 from some of the oldest vines in our home vineyard, (and in the region), planted in 1976. For many years this very small volume wine was blended into our Chardonnay. We have since planted a few extra rows of vines and produce a very limited number of cases of this single vineyard wine. It is dryish in style, fermented and aged in old barrels with a focus on palate texture and richness rather than fruitiness. It is a very interesting wine and has gained an enthusiastic following. We have always had success with Riesling. Our first gold medals in the mid 1990s were for this variety. The off-dry, Hope Vineyard Riesling is also made from our oldest vines and expresses ripe citrus flavours. More recently we have introduced the Apple Valley Riesling, a lower alcohol, sweeter wine in a vaguely German Spatlese style expressing juicy, apply freshness. This is a style which has gained a lot of momentum in New Zealand and works extremely well with our higher acid levels balancing naturally with higher residual sugar. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay continue to be an absorbing challenge in the vineyard and winery. Alongside the Sauvignon, It has been a very positive evolution having clearly defined two quite distinctive styles of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, together with Riesling within our range.
5. Tell us about what drives you in making Pinot Noir? Where do you think New Zealand is at in terms of regional style?
Pinot Noir is a never ending challenge and that keeps it interesting in both the vineyard and winery. There is always the desire to understand the fruit better and to allow it express itself clearly and consistently over time. It will reflect the place where it is grown and assume a recognisable identity. A thorough knowledge of the site and an accurate interpretation of the season and its influence on fruit is essential. This context becomes clearer with every passing vintage. It is always exciting to be making a wine variety which has such a dedicated following and importance in the scheme of New Zealand wine. I suppose it is possible to define regional styles in a broader sense and with time this may become more clear cut. In some wines these are clearly evident but there are always wines that do not fit the regional mould. Winemaker influence and philosophy does play an important part in the way that the wine expresses itself and often this can cloud the issue and over ride the regional thing. I think that regional character of Pinot will inevitably become clearer over time and this will be a good evolution. In the meantime, continued striving for quality, site selection, increased vine age and evolution of sustainable, organic and biodynamic practices will contribute to more recognizable and individual examples of NZ Pinot Noir.
To be continued next Wednesday…
Click here to view the range from Andrew.