It’s only the most widely planted grape variety in Italy, accounting for around 10% of all vineyards, but Trebbiano is hardly the first white that comes to mind when you think of the wines of Italy. It is a grape variety prized for its resistance to disease and prodigious yields, yet much of it is cruelly underrated by the wine drinking public.

Naturally high in acidity, low in alcohol and often more savoury than fruity, Trebbiano is by definition a classic food wine, if often limited to good quality table wine status. It is known as Ugni-Blanc in France, where it is also widely grown.

Pinot Grigio is the most popular Italian white here in Ireland, and of course there are plenty of fabulous examples from that variety, the Farnese Pinot Grigio from Abruzzo (pictured) being one. Dry, fruity, an undeniably very drinkable crowd pleaser, it probably out-sells the Trebbiano in the same range by 4 to 1, but it is in fact the Trebbiano that is the true wine drinkers wine, and in my opinion, the classier of the two. I like to think of it as the poor man’s Italian Chablis.

Another seriously good drinking Trebbiano from Italy are those of the Lombardia region, specifically on the shores of Lake Garda. The soil is made up of layers of calcareous clay created during the post-glacial era of the lake. It gives the wine its characteristic straw colour, accentuating the aromas of almonds and slightly salty, sappy flavour. Our choice is made by the Lugana Tenuta Maiolo.

If your preference is that savoury style, then Italian Trebbiano might be the economical answer to Chablis, particularly if there is 20% off Italy during July and August.