In 1985 the Austrian wine industry was thrown into turmoil after dessert wines from the Burgenland region were found to have ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) added in an attempt to replicate the honeyed sweetness associated with botrytis wines.

On a lighter note, it may not be quite as bad as you think. According to Wikipedia, one would have had to consume 28 bottles per day for two weeks to suffer fatal consequences. Nevertheless, the Austrian wine industry had managed to get itself into a spot of bother thanks to a minority of careless vintners, and in the years to follow it would pay the price as their global sales plummeted.

Today, Austria has renewed its worldwide appeal. In reference to Robert Parker’s Wine Buyer’s Guide, Austria accounts for a mere 1.3% of the European Community’s wine volume, yet in terms of total EU wine value, it’s more than twice that percentage. With time and action, such as an overhaul of its wine-control system, this is a country that has really got its act together.

The country is divided into four wine-growing areas. Weinland Österreich comprises the federal states of Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) and Burgenland with a total of 12 wine regions. Steirerland, with its three Styrian wine regions, and Wien (Vienna), Austria’s capital, which comprises 700 hectares of vineyards. The other states of Austria are collectively referred to as ‘Bergland Österreich’ (mountain country Austria), where small vineyards are thinly scattered.

There are some wonderful red wines coming out of Austria, but it is mainly a white wine nation. The native grape is Grüner Veltliner, which is in some ways what Chenin Blanc is to South Africa. A hardy grape that is easily grown in this part of the world, Grüner Veltliner produces wines that are consistent, reliable and easy drinking, although those from the best sites are proving to be very complex. From soft tropical fruit, to white pepper, green beans and lentils, this is certainly a very engaging varietal that we will hopefully start to see more of in Ireland.

It looks like the only way is up for the Austrian wine industry. Here’s just hoping they stick to the right formula of honesty and enthusiasm, which helps rank them among the worlds finest vintners.

Click here to view the best of South Styria from Wohlmuth.