Ah, the infamous Chardonnay. The classy, sophisticated wine of the 90′s, made popular by those people who just didn’t know how to pronounce any other type of grape. “I’ll have a Chardonnay please.”

Well, as it turned out, this uber-trendy group of beautiful intellectuals turned on their beloved Chardonnay in the post-90′s era, when the new cool was ‘anything BUT Chardonnay’. Maybe in some cases with good reason. Commercialised, flat, characterless, sugar-laced and complete with essence of oak, cheap volume Chardonnay flooded the marketplace to tend for those thirsty ‘too cool for schoolers’.

But was it a thirst just to be accepted by their peers, or was it genuinely a thirst for good, honest, enjoyable wine? To be fair, as the new millennium came and went, it was probably just Chardonnay’s time to take a back seat and let Sauvignon Blanc take the lime-light for a while.

But I would like to make a stand. Chardonnay is back, baby! It’s awesome and it’s here to stay. One of the problems is, you might not even know you’ve been drinking a good Chardonnay. Ever tried a Pouilly-Fuissé or a Chablis? 100% Chardonnay, and generally cracking at that.

Chardonnay is not a particularly aromatic grape – it is less pungent on the nose than a Sauvignon Blanc, for example. It possesses delicate fruit and subtle ‘mineral’ nuances, and these are the main reasons for it’s suitability in expressing the oak and yeast-derived flavours. Flavours of toast, vanilla and coconut occur because of oak treatment, whether it be from ageing in oak barrels, from the use of oak chips or artificial oak flavouring (oak essence is generally only used in cheap Chardonnay). Malolactic fermentation, and stirring of the dead yeast cells once fermentation has ended, will give a smooth texture with yummy buttery and creamy flavours.

For those that are all about the fruit, fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks and they have no contact with oak. In cool climate regions, like Chablis, you can expect green fruit (apple and pear) with citrus and occasionally mild vegetal notes (like cucumber). In moderate climates, such as in Burgundy, the wines may taste of white stone fruit (peach) with citrus notes and hints of melon. Warm regions, such as parts of Australia, the wines will have expressions of tropical fruit, like banana and pineapple.

Wherever you’re getting your wine from, remember to ask a member of staff what they recommend based on your preference for your style of Chardonnay, because it is one of those wines that can be so different from bottle to bottle. I’ll suggest four from our range, two unoaked and two with a touch of oak, to get you asking for Chardonnay once again.

• Palazzi Chardonnay: Fresh, crisp and unoaked, the Palazzi is one of our most popular whites under €10.
• In Situ Chardonnay: Chile often produces staggering quality at low prices, and this lightly oaked white is the perfect example. There are few wines at this price where the oak is as well integrated as in this fruity number.
• Rockbare Chardonnay: This is the one that got me thinking deeply about Chardonnay again. A little oak, but in no way overpowering, the fruit is allowed to shine through. There’s lovely nutty, savoury tones on the mid-palate with a lemony finish. Famous wine critic, Robert Parker, rated this wine as ‘outstanding’, with 91 out of 100 points.
• Brocard Chablis: If you prefer a classy French with no oak, Brocard’s organic Chablis is for you. Delicate and fruity, with a touch of minerality – fairly typical of Chablis. Fermentation is carried out in stainless steel tanks. For more on Brocard, see this blog post from last month.