Riesling: The Ugly Duckling of Wine
More From: Curious Facts & Fun
Posted March 18th, 2009 by Michael Kane
Anyone reading my contributions to the Curious Wines and LookandTaste blogs in the last month or so will have noticed a slight bias towards a certain grape variety when it comes to food matching. So what’s the story with the world’s most mispronounced grape (it’s Reece-ling by the way!)? Is this a one-man crusade for a personal wine fetish, or is there something the mass market is missing, as in market share terms Riesling remains highly unfashionable.
The truth of the matter is that, despite being consistently hailed as the finest of all white grapes by the likes of Jancis Robinson, Riesling is regarded suspiciously by the wine-drinking mainstream. Part of the reason for this is the association with Germany, and the poor quality exports in the 80s that the German wine industry is still recovering from. Another is the simple truth that Riesling has never found favour with either the supermarkets or the big wine brands, critical segments in terms of pushing volume and developing consumer tastes.
So what exactly are the Chardonnay-slaves missing? Here’s my top five reasons that, if you haven’t already, you really have to start drinking Riesling.
1. Nobility. ‘Noble’ is the term used to describe grapes that are capable of producing great wines on their own, and in different regions around the world. Riesling’s claim for greatness is supported by the unique ageing capacity of its wines, with the best capable of ageing for decades in the bottle.
2. Terroir. Yes, that vague French term that can mean little more than ‘sense of place’, Riesling has an inimitable ability to transmit characteristics of the very vineyard where it is grown, whilst retaining its own identity and style.
3. Acidity. Riesling has a natural acidity – very different from the harsh acid added to lesser wines to balance sugar content – that makes it perfect for drinking with food. This inherent quality means that Rieslings, whether dry or sweet, will retain their crispness and elegance of flavour.
4. Diversity. Riesling produces outstanding wines right along the dry-sweet continuum, from bone-dry fine wine to lusciously sweet Ice Wine, meaning you could wine-match a starter, main-course and a rich, sweet dessert with a different Riesling for each.
5. Alcohol. Riesling is naturally a low alcohol-producing grape, with the highest alcohol levels reflecting total dryness where all the sugar has been converted to alcohol. This makes it extremely attractive when it comes to balancing a healthy lifestyle with a love for wine, as there are correspondingly less units per glass or bottle.
Back to the Blossom Creeks, as a final, happy note on Riesling’s greatness, it is highly unlikely it will ever dominate the supermarket shelves in the way that Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc have in the last 20 years. The Riesling grape ripens quickly, hence the reason you see Rieslings from top quality but cooler wine-producing regions such as the Mosel in Germany, Alsace in France and New Zealand, and why you’ll never see it in the volume-producing areas of southern France, Italy or southern California. For this reason, quality should withstand the demand-pressures for volume, however popular or fashionable it may become.
So get out there and explore the greatest white wine of them all, as it’s not going to present itself in a glass to you. You can start here.











March 18th, 2009 at 2:14 pm
You don’t seem to give any credence to the fact that people don’t actually like the smell or taste of Riesling based wines - unless of course there’s an emphasis on rich and voluptous characters with very little racing, zippy mineral Riesling features. In my wine classes I find that there is a genuine dislike among wine newbies for Riesling. It’s akin to teaching people to like Fino as opposed to appreciating it. Keep up the crusade ‘cos you are most certainly not a one man rant.
March 18th, 2009 at 7:53 pm
Another point worth mentioning is the cryptic German wine labels. They don’t do themselves any favours, verdammt!
Fritz needs to sort that out, schnell-like.
March 19th, 2009 at 9:48 am
Aw guys, c’mon, no mention of my Duckling/Reese-ling joke? I thought it was at least worth a footnote!
Cheers
March 25th, 2009 at 12:18 pm
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